Sunday, May 26, 2013

Vegetable Ivory, Hats, and Tuna?

Quite a title isn't it?  Vegetable Ivory is actually a tagua nut that comes from this area as well as Panama and Columbia.  A remarkable thing that can be carved into jewelry, small statues, chess sets, and many other beautiful pieces of work.  We met some of the best carvers in Ecuador during a shopping excursion in a small town called Sosote.
tagua nut casing
usually found at base of tree
seeds used for carving
Miquel and his camera shy friend are the best carvers in the area

each monkey is separate nut then glued together

The Panama Hat is a story Ecuador has never quite gotten credit for.  The following is the story from the cab driver:  During the building of the Panama Canal an exiled Ecuadorian president noticed the men were not wearing hats.  He contacted his friends in Montecristi and had them send what they had.  He made a lot of money selling hats to the workers.  When President Roosevelt came to Panama for a visit he noticed the hats and had to have one.  One was given to him as a gift and when he returned to New York, a picture was taken of him with his Panama Hat.  The End.  The hats however have always been made in Ecuador out of toquilla straw, supposedly the finest straw on earth right here in Montecriste.  They range from fine to super fino, the tighter the weave the better quality hat and the more expensive.  They can take a week to several months of daily work for just one hat.  I believe I read that Queen Elizabeth even has a Panama Hat as well as several celebrities. While on our shopping excursion, Captain Don was on his own quest to find his very own Panama Hat.
Lonely Planet's suggested place of purchase "Jose Chavez Franco"


The Hat!  They come with a special hat bag and a balsa box that you can literally roll your hat into. (the weave is so fine that when it's rolled and unrolled there are no creases)

TUNA:  We have now seen where "Bumble Bee" and host of other tuna companies have packing houses.  Manta is known as the tuna capital of the world.  Wooden tuna boats are still built on the beaches and as far as I could see, there were boats.  All of them after the same fish!  Amazing, no wonder it's such an expensive fish!


That was quite a day of shopping,  (How often do you think he'll wear the hat?)

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Onto Ecuador but first, we become Shellbacks

     Cross the Equator gain a name:   

     Tuesday, March 5, 2013 left anchorage at Isla Caña an island in the Las Perlas off the coast of Panama 8:10 a.m.  Sails set, motor off, sun shining, seas calm, winds at a mild 15 knots. We waited an extra two days for the weather window before we headed out towards Ecuador.  Feeling jittery and exhilarated upon departure, this would be our first overnight sail in the Pacific ocean, a five day trip.   Not only does Ecuador signify the beginning of our South America circumnavigation but, we would be crossing the equator and becoming "shellbacks".
     The term shellback has been used as far back as the mid 1800's for someone who has sailed across the equator.  Ceremonies are performed to initiate the newbie into the Kingdom of Neptune - the legendary god of the seas.  The following is from http://www.desausa.org:
   
 "Pollywog to Shellback - In the U.S. Navy, when a ship crosses the equator a time-honored ceremony takes place. This is a Navy tradition and an event no sailor ever forgets.  With few exceptions, those who have been inducted into the "mysteries of the deep" by Neptunus Rex and his Royal court, count the experience as a highlight of their naval career.  Members of Neptunus Rex's party usually include Davy Jones, Neptune's first assistant, Her Highness Amphitrite, the Royal Scribe, the Royal Doctor, the Royal Dentist,  the Royal Baby, the Royal Navigator, the Royal Chaplain, the Royal Judge, Attorneys, Barbers and other names that suit the party.
     Officially recognized by service record entries indicating date, time, latitude and longitude, the crossing of the equator involves elaborate preparation by the "shellbacks" (those who have crossed the equator before) to ensure the "pollywogs" (those who are about to cross the equator for the first time) are properly indoctrinated. All pollywogs, even the Commanding Officer if he has not crossed before, must participate. 
     Once the ceremony is complete a certificate is presented to the new "Shellbacks".

     Some of the stories for initiation are ones of horror and tortuous pain.  We on the s/v Limbo toasted the occasion with mimosas and Aretha Franklins', "Say a Little Prayer".   Truly a fantastic moment. 

 
Equator crossing at 00.00.26 S & 80.33.49 W at 8:38 am Saturday, April 9, 2013
We did it hon.

  Below is a modified certificate for Limbo.   





TO ALL SAILORS WHEREVER YE MAY BE:    and to all Mermaids, Whales, Sea Serpents, Porpoises, Sharks, Dolphins, Eels, Skates, Suckers, Crabs, Lobsters, and all other Living Things of the Sea. 
GREETINGS:  Know ye That on this ninth day of April2013, in Latitude 0000 and Longitude 80 o33' W there appeared within Our Royal Domain the s/v LIMBO bound SW for the Equator and for South America
BE IT REMEMBERED
That the said Vessel and Officers and Crew thereof have been inspected and passed on by Ourself and Our Royal Staff 
AND BE IT KNOWN By all ye Sailors, Marines, Land Lubbers and others who may be honored by his presence that 
 
Donald D Bylsma
having been found worthy to be numbered as one of our Trusty Shellbacks he has been duly initiated into the 
SOLEMN MYSTERIES OF THE ANCIENT ORDER OF THE DEEP
BE IT FURTHER UNDERSTOOD That by virtue of the power invested in me I do hereby command all my subjects to show due honor and respect to him wherever he may be. 
Disobey this order under penalty of Our Royal Displeasure
Given under our hand and seal this 9th day of April, 2013
Signed
Neptunus Rex 
Ruler of the Raging Main 
       



And don't forget me, I was there too.
Greetings to all Shellbacks:

This is to Certify, that Only Mate Rita Bylsma aboard s/v Limbo was duly initiated into the Solemn Mysteries of the Ancient Order of the Deep and made a worthy Shellback in our Royal Dominion at 00°00’26 South and 80°33’49 West on Saturday the 9th of April 2013

Neptunus Rex Ruler of the Raging Main
Official: Captain Don Bylsma Commanding Officer, Limbo


Next up:  Bahia Caráquez, first port of call in Ecuador -