Bahia, were Limbo was moored |
In less than 24 hours we were pulling into La Libertad, Puerto Lucia Yacht Club, June 6, 2013. A boat came to greet us, pick up the captain of the vessel and pointed to a temporary anchorage to wait while our papers were processed. When arriving in a port, custom dictates only the captain goes ashore until the vessel and crew are cleared in. In a few of the countries we've been to, it is mandatory that you hire an agent that clears you through all the agencies at each port, Ecuador is such a country. Rumors were rampant about La Libertad because of the seemingly unregulated agent in charge. It was said he charged what ever he wanted. Usual agent fees can be anywhere from $50 to $450. This agent had been known to charge as much as $1000. These fees are on top of what the country charges for clearing a vessel in and out. We had been in contact with him via email letting him know of our anticipated arrival date. On our way out of Bahia, Trip, the owner of Puerto Amistad phoned us and said that the agent in question had died two days prior. He had hung himself. Not knowing what to expect, we kept going. Come to find out, no one knew what to expect, we were the first private vessel in port since his death. There were no other agents for private vessels. The owner of the yard, Marisol, took all our papers, the marina took our credit card, then directed us to a marina slip with that timeless phrase, "don't worry". Good news, we were told we could haul out the next morning for work to begin.
Following morning up and about. We wanted work to begin on Limbo as soon as possible because we only had one month left on our visas for Ecuador. We were excited to be getting solar panels, davits, a table, paint job, bottom paint, and sail covers. New to the list now was the dept sounder. During the work we had planned on finishing our tour of Ecuador, seeing the south end of the country.
First disappointment, the yard manager, Jeremy would be in Florida for a few days which would delay our haul out and placement in the yard. Not a problem, we would catch up on some much needed cleaning with the fresh water supply offered at the dock. Also shop in regular grocery stores where the food comes in packages and cans. You know, the American diet.... I know this probably does not sound very exciting to most of you, but, the word grocery does not have the same meaning in other parts of the world. Cans, bottles, clean, sterilized, sealed products are not the norm. Shelves with 20 choices of mayonnaise are not available. Country of origin for your meat is not really necessary because you can look out the back door and see the food chain grazing on whatever they can find. When you first encounter this, it is "organic on the cheap". After a few months of it, the thought of a box of fruit loops is salivating.
A week passed, the plans still in play for traveling and the wish list for Limbo growing, we had the most extraordinary experience. The famed blue footed booby bird of the Galapagos perched himself on the rocks right next to us and a sea turtle surfaced. I wondered if they were friends that had become lost together.
Blue footed Booby |
yep, definitely blue feet |
sea turtle |
And then the second disappointment, I missed a very small step twisting my ankle. It looked bad, really bad and hurt. In hindsight, I should have taken a picture. This ended the traveling, I would not be able to walk for quite a while and even then it would be a hobble.
Plans continued for the haul out and work on Limbo. Out of the water and in place with our stern facing the ocean, I at least had a lovely view as I lay in bed watching my ankle change colors. Then the third disappointment, Jeremy, the yard manager informs us that the only way to get bottom paint for an aluminum boat is from the USA. This was going to be very expensive with the 18% duty Ecuador charges for anything being shipped in, not to mention the time lag because paint has to be sent by boat. Bottom job now off list. Searched and searched for aluminum tubing to make davits, no go. Davits now off the list. Search for solar panels, no luck. Same story with the fabric to make new sail covers, special order, long delivery time, import tax. No new sail covers. We had the paint on board for the hull, so that was done. The wood work took the entire month. We were concerned that we would have to leave without it.
All in all, not a bad way to spend your days.