I will admit to some trepidation because of the direction we would be attempting to sail. We would have wind and the Humboldt current against us. The plan was to sail the first part as far as we could and then motor in. We only hold 90 gallons of diesel in the tanks and then carry another 30 gallons in jerry cans on deck. The trip was suppose to be approximately 708 nautical miles. This would equate to 6 or 7 days passage time. I had prepared several meals and froze them insuring we'd have plenty to eat regardless of the weather conditions.
The first few days went against our plans requiring us to motor sail much more than intended. The winds where at a 20 to 27 knots, seas varying from 8 to 12 feet. At times it seemed we were going backwards! Captain Don had chosen the sailing route because of requirements to check into Peru's maritime vessel traffic controllers, "Tramar". Check in is 24 hours prior to arriving in Peruvian waters, and then two times daily giving position readings until arriving in your port of call. This is usually done via internet. We had intended to use SPSMAIL, which is associated with our Iridium Satellite Phone. Awe, the path of good intentions. Our computer crashed making email impossible. The four phone numbers we had for Tramar, no one answered regardless of time of day or even what day. The only other thing we could do to try and comply was travel close enough to shore to use the VHF radio, channel 16. Time and time again to no avail, zero response. We continued to call and document the call time with position and station we tried to contact. We then tried contacting our liaison from Seven Seas Cruising Association to see if he could help with our entry. Ugh! He was out of the country. We did reach his wife and she notified the yacht club of our pending arrival. This did not give us check in approval for Tramar. Worry, worry. There could be heavy fines imposed. Nothing to do but keep documenting the endless effort of contact.
The first few days went against our plans requiring us to motor sail much more than intended. The winds where at a 20 to 27 knots, seas varying from 8 to 12 feet. At times it seemed we were going backwards! Captain Don had chosen the sailing route because of requirements to check into Peru's maritime vessel traffic controllers, "Tramar". Check in is 24 hours prior to arriving in Peruvian waters, and then two times daily giving position readings until arriving in your port of call. This is usually done via internet. We had intended to use SPSMAIL, which is associated with our Iridium Satellite Phone. Awe, the path of good intentions. Our computer crashed making email impossible. The four phone numbers we had for Tramar, no one answered regardless of time of day or even what day. The only other thing we could do to try and comply was travel close enough to shore to use the VHF radio, channel 16. Time and time again to no avail, zero response. We continued to call and document the call time with position and station we tried to contact. We then tried contacting our liaison from Seven Seas Cruising Association to see if he could help with our entry. Ugh! He was out of the country. We did reach his wife and she notified the yacht club of our pending arrival. This did not give us check in approval for Tramar. Worry, worry. There could be heavy fines imposed. Nothing to do but keep documenting the endless effort of contact.
We are now testimony to why this is a route less traveled. We ran through unmarked fish nets that extended a mile or more with very small unlit vessels to tend them, which by the way do not show on our radar. Some of the boats did have a single pole with a red light stuck to the top of an outboard motor, but when the waves are taller than the light, there goes any benefit! We got caught once and spent an hour trying to just float off without damage to their net or tangling Limbo's prop. The second time I ran right through it, not sure of the damage done to the net, Limbo kept plowing through making use of the favorable night wind. We now changed watch schedules to every 2 hours. Dangers do lurk off the northern coast of Peru. Day three we had no choice but to head out and start tacking to catch some wind and conserve fuel. Again high seas, steady 25 knot winds with gust to 30, (this would not be that bad if it wasn't head winds). We continue tacking, day 4 winds calmer, no more fishing boats. Dolphins arrived to give a show, leaping with the bow wake, skirting under the boat on the other side, so fast they're but a streaming black color under the blue green sea.
Day 5 we're still tacking. Time dragging. Moods waning. Sea and wind still touch and go. You would think that with all that free time something wonderful could become of it. That is not what happens. On a passage of any length, you read, you play games, you sleep and you eat. For us, night watch is usually 3 hours. This of course depends on the weather. With this trip, a watch was only 2 hours, day and night. So you're on a sleep deficit. Even on the days where you can get in a 4 to 6 hour sleep, you're still operating on a deficit.
Day 6, we are really getting concerned about fuel. We should be closer than we really are. It seems Lima is getting further away. It's demoralizing when that happens, but when you tack out to catch the wind, then tack back you are traveling a zig zag line in the ocean not a straight freeway. This adds more miles. More dolphins come to give us much needed cheer. The weather was changing to a cool crisp feel. We pulled out the sweatpants and blankets for the nights watch. Winds still hitting 27 knots, waves still rock and roll, pitching us back and forth. Nauseating and annoying. Around 11 p.m. we heard a snap, actually a bit louder than a snap, we lost the jib. Captain Don made quick work of furling it in hoping for nothing else to happen in those moments.....By 4:30 a.m. winds were acting like they might calm down. Daylight we slowed off the coast outside of Semanco, close to Chimbote, to inspect the damage to the jib. Bad news, the webbing on the head of the sail was ripped. No can use. This meant a motor sail with only the main the rest of the way, another 205 nautical miles to go. Fuel rapidly depleting, we crossed our fingers and prayed.
Day 6, we are really getting concerned about fuel. We should be closer than we really are. It seems Lima is getting further away. It's demoralizing when that happens, but when you tack out to catch the wind, then tack back you are traveling a zig zag line in the ocean not a straight freeway. This adds more miles. More dolphins come to give us much needed cheer. The weather was changing to a cool crisp feel. We pulled out the sweatpants and blankets for the nights watch. Winds still hitting 27 knots, waves still rock and roll, pitching us back and forth. Nauseating and annoying. Around 11 p.m. we heard a snap, actually a bit louder than a snap, we lost the jib. Captain Don made quick work of furling it in hoping for nothing else to happen in those moments.....By 4:30 a.m. winds were acting like they might calm down. Daylight we slowed off the coast outside of Semanco, close to Chimbote, to inspect the damage to the jib. Bad news, the webbing on the head of the sail was ripped. No can use. This meant a motor sail with only the main the rest of the way, another 205 nautical miles to go. Fuel rapidly depleting, we crossed our fingers and prayed.
Later with sun setting, a full moon rising, we see the arid shoreline with the Andes towering on our horizon. It's these moments that answer the quest for adventure.
78 miles left to go, winds down to 17 knots waves down at 8 to 10 feet gently rolling. A lift and slide, not a pitch and slam. The passage was getting better. 46 miles left, waves calmed more, winds down to 14 knots. 6:39 a.m. July 23, 2013 we arrived at Port of Callao, Lima Peru. We were greeted by a launcha (water taxi) sent out by Yacht Club Peruano. We have landed after 8 days of one of our toughest sails to date. It felt good to be here.
