Colonial Quito

Still in Quito you say?  Yes, it is a huge city with stuff.  Lots of stuff.  After living and traveling on a boat, cities are fascinating to me with all the hustle and bustle of traffic, horns, lights, smells, cab drivers and buses, languages foreign and more foreign.  Everyone with someplace to go, things to do, and we were no exception.  We had touristy things to do before we headed to the airport for our anticipated trip home.  

Quito is divided into districts so it's fairly easy to get around and map out your day.  An entire day was devoted to the historical center, or old town of Quito.  If you like old buildings, this city was awarded the First Cultural Heritage of Humanity and American Capital of Culture in 2011.  It's over 5 centuries old.  I won't bore you with descriptions but some of the churches here are unbelievable.  One of them took 160 years to build and has over 52 kilos of 23 carat-gold leaf adorning the walls and statues.  There is a painting in one called the "Hell and the Last Judgement" by Brother Hernando de la Cruz from 1620.  A massive work of art depicting the "breaking of the big 10 sins" people standing in judgement in hell,waiting.  The colors and activity in that painting alone could keep you standing there for hours.   Most of these places you're not allowed to take pictures.  One of the churches has an 1104-pipe organ that is still used for special concerts.  The streets throughout this part of the city are brick, the buildings multi-colored and adorned with more carvings and ornate iron work than anywhere I've ever seen.  Some of the tile work is interlaced with the back vertebrae of animals giving white geometric symmetry to the tile stones.  Take a stroll through Old Quito with a few photos:  

Look at the church at the end of the street.  I wanted to go but the hills had become too much.

Hell and Last Judgement

What a great few days we had here.  Now it's time to get on a plane and head back to Texas for a few weeks.  Adventure awaits there too.

Bahia Caraquez to the Middle of the Earth - Quito

Good day to all of you. We've had adventure after adventure the last few weeks, so I'm a bit behind in the blog updates.

 First a bit about our entry into Ecuador. We had been told to not try and enter your first time into Bahia Caraquez without a pilot. On our approach it was apparent why, with huge boulders piled onto the beach, and jetting up through the shallows, a current sending us backward and winds taking us sideways.

the nav aide, yep it's on dry land at low tide

 We had sent an email letting the owner, Tripp Martin, know of our anticipated arrival date. We anchored in what they call the "waiting area" overnight for a pilot and high tide in order to enter the channel leading into the bay and marina. Twenty dollars and 3 cold coca colas got us safely in and secured to two mooring balls, one aft and forward. It was rapidly apparent why we needed two moorings as the current is 3 knots with lots of debris washing down the Rio Chone. Logs, trees, masses of grasses that looked like small islands, all wrapping themselves around the mooring lines and Limbo momentarily encasing us in jungle rubbish as the current carried it out to sea. The marina is not really a marina, more a restaurant with some mooring balls they rent by the month. They also provide a dinghy dock, laundry facilities, and the indispensable, wi-fi. This is a less expensive entry point with the Marina Puerto Amistad being owned and operated by an ex-sailing gringo. He doesn't charge the exorbitant agent fees that are charged at the other entry point in Salinas. People tend to leave their boats here for long periods of time while they do inland travel. Which is exactly what we intended to do. The town of Bahia is not much to talk about except that it is a weekend resort town for people from Quito and beyond. It is quaint with it's daily markets of fresh produce and fish, comfortable and safe to walk around in to get off the boat a bit, and some fairly decent restaurants. The lunches being the best. You can get a bowl of soup, a meat with rice, salad, plantains and fresh squeezed juice for $2.50. Some come with a desert and then it's $3.00.

fresh produce and fish daily

We left Bahia and Limbo behind and headed up into the Andes, to the capital city of Quito approximately 10,000 feet above sea level, and home to over 3 million people. The bus ride was luxurious compared to others we've been on, complete with English subtitled movies. We could feel our lungs struggle slightly, the air thinner and cooler as we traveled higher.

10,377 feet according to the smart phone.

After a 7 hour ride, the bus let us out in what appeared to be a congested intersection, not a bus station. Shrugging our shoulders with a look of confusion towards one another, we picked up our backpacks and hailed the next cab. Turned out we were only a few blocks from our hostel, the L'Auberge Inn, owned by a Swiss couple. A very cute place, good food, very friendly English speaking front desk help.  Unfortunately, we had to climb a lot of stairs to get to our room which did not help our heaving, wheezing, lungs.  No TV, no heat, but some great alpaca blankets, wi-fi, hot water shower, and decent food.  Of course when you took a shower, the time between water to clothes was exceptionally cold!  Not to complain, we were going to be too busy to worry about our room with the rock hard bed and flat pillows.  Our intent was to do some volcano exploring.

The following morning we took a cab to Teleferico which is at the base of volcan Pichincha.  There you can take a gondola ride up to the clouds, or 13,400 feet.  The view is spectacular with all of Quito spread through the valley surrounded by mountains and two other volcanoes, Cotopaxi and Cayambe.

gondola to the clouds

Quito from the clouds

The view was a bit obscured because of the clouds but beautiful none the less.  We decided that we would definitely need more time to acclimate to the altitude before we ventured any higher or on any hikes.


Next on the list of things to see and do, Mited del Mundo, or middle of the world.  A monument made from volcanic rock and museum marking the supposed equatorial line.  It has quite a display of equipment used by the first French Geodesic Mission in 1736 who came to measure an arch of meridian to prove the shape of the earth.

Mited del Mundo

The true equator is down the road just a few miles with another museum called "Inti-Nan" or "Path of the Sun".  This site was the one claimed by the Incas as the center of the world and has been verified using GPS technology.  Amazing isn't it?   How did they know?  

First we sailed across, now we're standing on the line of two hemispheres!  Incredible when you're there.

Some of the experiments they show like, how your balance is different, how an egg can stand on a nail head, how water circulates in different directions depending on what side of the line your on.  All impressive stuff until someone tells you its a hoax.  But, we did see these things with our own eyes 

Captain Don trying to make the egg stand by itself.

the egg does stand, but some else did it.

This little museum is packed with local lore including how to shrink heads which according to the guide, was allowed all the way to 1950 when it was outlawed for human heads but continues to be done on animals in some of the remaining jungle tribes.  The walls depicted paintings showing the steps.

Step 1 cut off the head

Step 2 take out the skull

Step 3 sew the lips together and add secret herbs.  (they don't tell you which herbs, its ancient secret, if they told you, they'd have to cut off your head)

Step 4: Boil the head

Step 5: If the person was a loved one or person of importance they would decorate it and wear it.  If it is an enemy, you get put on a pole or hung in a tree.

This is a real shrunken head kept in a glass case.  The guide said it was of a 12 year  old  boy. (I have been called gullible more than once)

Enough for now, we have more on our stay in Quito to share another time.  

Vegetable Ivory, Hats, and Tuna?

Quite a title isn't it?  Vegetable Ivory is actually a tagua nut that comes from this area as well as Panama and Columbia.  A remarkable thing that can be carved into jewelry, small statues, chess sets, and many other beautiful pieces of work.  We met some of the best carvers in Ecuador during a shopping excursion in a small town called Sosote.

tagua nut casing
usually found at base of tree

seeds used for carving

Miquel and his camera shy friend are the best carvers in the area

each monkey is separate nut then glued together

The Panama Hat is a story Ecuador has never quite gotten credit for.  The following is the story from the cab driver:  During the building of the Panama Canal an exiled Ecuadorian president noticed the men were not wearing hats.  He contacted his friends in Montecristi and had them send what they had.  He made a lot of money selling hats to the workers.  When President Roosevelt came to Panama for a visit he noticed the hats and had to have one.  One was given to him as a gift and when he returned to New York, a picture was taken of him with his Panama Hat.  The End.  The hats however have always been made in Ecuador out of toquilla straw, supposedly the finest straw on earth right here in Montecriste.  They range from fine to super fino, the tighter the weave the better quality hat and the more expensive.  They can take a week to several months of daily work for just one hat.  I believe I read that Queen Elizabeth even has a Panama Hat as well as several celebrities. While on our shopping excursion, Captain Don was on his own quest to find his very own Panama Hat.

Lonely Planet's suggested place of purchase "Jose Chavez Franco"

The Hat!  They come with a special hat bag and a balsa box that you can literally roll your hat into. (the weave is so fine that when it's rolled and unrolled there are no creases)

TUNA:  We have now seen where "Bumble Bee" and host of other tuna companies have packing houses.  Manta is known as the tuna capital of the world.  Wooden tuna boats are still built on the beaches and as far as I could see, there were boats.  All of them after the same fish!  Amazing, no wonder it's such an expensive fish!

That was quite a day of shopping,  (How often do you think he'll wear the hat?)

Onto Ecuador but first, we become Shellbacks

     Cross the Equator gain a name:   

     Tuesday, March 5, 2013 left anchorage at Isla Caña an island in the Las Perlas off the coast of Panama 8:10 a.m.  Sails set, motor off, sun shining, seas calm, winds at a mild 15 knots. We waited an extra two days for the weather window before we headed out towards Ecuador.  Feeling jittery and exhilarated upon departure, this would be our first overnight sail in the Pacific ocean, a five day trip.   Not only does Ecuador signify the beginning of our South America circumnavigation but, we would be crossing the equator and becoming "shellbacks".

     The term shellback has been used as far back as the mid 1800's for someone who has sailed across the equator.  Ceremonies are performed to initiate the newbie into the Kingdom of Neptune - the legendary god of the seas.  The following is from http://www.desausa.org:

   

 "Pollywog to Shellback - In the U.S. Navy, when a ship crosses the equator a time-honored ceremony takes place. This is a Navy tradition and an event no sailor ever forgets.  With few exceptions, those who have been inducted into the "mysteries of the deep" by Neptunus Rex and his Royal court, count the experience as a highlight of their naval career.  Members of Neptunus Rex's party usually include Davy Jones, Neptune's first assistant, Her Highness Amphitrite, the Royal Scribe, the Royal Doctor, the Royal Dentist,  the Royal Baby, the Royal Navigator, the Royal Chaplain, the Royal Judge, Attorneys, Barbers and other names that suit the party.

     Officially recognized by service record entries indicating date, time, latitude and longitude, the crossing of the equator involves elaborate preparation by the "shellbacks" (those who have crossed the equator before) to ensure the "pollywogs" (those who are about to cross the equator for the first time) are properly indoctrinated. All pollywogs, even the Commanding Officer if he has not crossed before, must participate. 

     Once the ceremony is complete a certificate is presented to the new "Shellbacks".

     Some of the stories for initiation are ones of horror and tortuous pain.  We on the s/v Limbo toasted the occasion with mimosas and Aretha Franklins', "Say a Little Prayer".   Truly a fantastic moment. 

 

Equator crossing at 00.00.26 S & 80.33.49 W at 8:38 am Saturday, April 9, 2013

We did it hon.

  Below is a modified certificate for Limbo.   

TO ALL SAILORS WHEREVER YE MAY BE:    and to all Mermaids, Whales, Sea Serpents, Porpoises, Sharks, Dolphins, Eels, Skates, Suckers, Crabs, Lobsters, and all other Living Things of the Sea. 
GREETINGS:  Know ye That on this ninth day of April, 2013, in Latitude 0000 and Longitude 80 ^o33' W there appeared within Our Royal Domain the s/v LIMBO bound SW for the Equator and for South America. 

BE IT REMEMBERED

That the said Vessel and Officers and Crew thereof have been inspected and passed on by Ourself and Our Royal Staff 

AND BE IT KNOWN By all ye Sailors, Marines, Land Lubbers and others who may be honored by his presence that 
 

Donald D Bylsma

having been found worthy to be numbered as one of our Trusty Shellbacks he has been duly initiated into the 

SOLEMN MYSTERIES OF THE ANCIENT ORDER OF THE DEEP

BE IT FURTHER UNDERSTOOD That by virtue of the power invested in me I do hereby command all my subjects to show due honor and respect to him wherever he may be. 

Disobey this order under penalty of Our Royal Displeasure

Given under our hand and seal this 9^th day of April, 2013. 

Signed

Neptunus Rex 
Ruler of the Raging Main 
       

And don't forget me, I was there too.
Greetings to all Shellbacks:

This is to Certify, that Only Mate Rita Bylsma aboard s/v Limbo was duly initiated into the Solemn Mysteries of the Ancient Order of the Deep and made a worthy Shellback in our Royal Dominion at 00°00’26 South and 80°33’49 West on Saturday the 9th of April 2013

Neptunus Rex Ruler of the Raging Main
Official: Captain Don Bylsma Commanding Officer, Limbo

Next up:  Bahia Caráquez, first port of call in Ecuador -  

Panama, three part finale

More from Panama:  Part I

It’s been so long since I’ve written and so much has happened.  It’s now March 7, 2013 and we are currently on our way to Ecuador, a 5 day passage, the first opportunity I’ve had to write since my last post in January.  We’ve had company for 22 days, sailed to the San Blas Islands, hiked Fort San Lorenzo, transited the Panama Canal, seen the old city of Panama, Ancon Hill, sailed to the Las Perlas Islands, had dinner in the most incredible resort I’ve ever seen, walked all around Isla Mogomogo famous as an island used in the “Survivor” TV series, saw huge bats, a toucan, and wild macaws.  Had a barbeque on the beach with other boaters, bought diesel from a man in a lime green house, learned about the delectable iguana egg, and finally got to watch both seasons of “the Game of Thrones” in an anchorage with wild parrots flying by.  We’ve been busy, busy.

We’ll start with my dad’s visit beginning January 31^st.  We shopped the local town of Colon, beach combed for sand glass, walked out the jetties to see all the ships awaiting their transit on the Atlantic/Caribbean side.  If you can see a full mile, there were ships to fill the space.  Maybe a hundred or more at any given time of day awaiting their turn to go to the Pacific.  We also toured Fort Sherman, an abandoned military base with some of the buildings left from WWI.  While walking inside the halls of barracks, an unsettling feeling arose.  Don shone his light above and hundreds of bats took flight screaming!  Nope, sorry they were screeching, I was screaming.  (I really dislike bats!) Next up was a short trip to the San Blas Islands while we waited for sister Darla and husband Mark to also join us for the canal transit.

The San Blas islands are some of the prettiest in the Caribbean, white sandy beaches lined with coconut palms, the locals still living in thatched roof and bamboo huts, every sailor’s vision.  Water color the same as your backyard swimming pool only looking closer you’re likely to see stingrays in flight skimming the surface of the sandy bottom, dazzling orange, gold, red starfish scattered across the seabed the way the stars light up the night sky.  Purple coral the shape of fans swaying gently with the current, or in the shape of trees with out leaves, or giant ice cream cones you could put your head in, each a brilliant color belonging to only them.  Life is very simple on these islands even though they have been encroached upon with tourism.  The Kuna Indians still maintain their indigenous style of dress and culture sharing their art and way of life. (They are the second shortest people in the world with a fascinating culture, worth looking up)

Dad was amazed at their generosity and beauty.  A fisherman came to visit us and I told him how much I enjoyed the local “congrejo” crab.  The following morning he came back with a huge crab and two lobsters.  Dad gave him $20 for all three and we had a seafood feast like none other.  Although it was a short visit it was good to see the San Blas again.  It’s time to head back to Shelter Bay Marina to pick up Darla and Mark.

They arrived mid-morning February 12^th, with only a day and half left for the transit.  In order to transit each boat has to have 4 line handlers, the captain, and the advisor onboard.  The line handlers would be my dad, Mark, Darla, and me.   All three had to learn how to tie a bowline knot, a requirement for line handlers going through the canal.  A monkey fist is thrown from the wall down to your boat and you tie a bowline in it around the 125’ line on your boat which they then pull up the wall to secure your boat.  An hour or more of knot lessons we were ready to do something else so off to the beach for sand glass and shell hunting.

  

I must say at this point Don and I were getting a bit nervous, worrying about the transit, our novice boating line handlers, leaving behind the Caribbean and sailing into the Pacific, a whole new world and experience for us.  No time left to worry making sure Limbo is ready, our guest trained and having a good time.  One day left so we all went for a tour of Fort San Lorenzo built in the 1600’s to protect the gold and treasures being pirated back to Spain from all over South and Central America.  (Another interesting bit of history to look up)  Supposedly the famed pirate Henry Morgan destroyed the place.  That pirate got around!  I walked through the remaining halls, looked at the mote and old cannons.  Soaking up the panoramic vista I wondered about the men that stood here so many years ago.  I searched the stone for names etched from that time and found none. 

Back to the marina, a final look over Limbo, out to dinner, and a good sleep for the next days adventure.

 Panama Canal Transit: Part II

February 14, 2013 a big day for Limbo and her crew.  Crossing through a country from one ocean to another on a boat built with your own two hands!  Not only does it float it is now traveling under the Bridge of the Americas coming through one of the world’s wonders, the Panama Canal.  Definitely a “bucket list” item we can now scratch off. 

All hands on deck, lines and tires (tires are used as fenders) secured, goodbyes and best wishes extended, Limbo was off to the “flats” (an anchorage used as a holding pattern) to await an adviser from the canal authorities.   The adviser literally leaped from the pilot boat onto ours and immediately gave instructions to anchor up and head in.  We would be entering behind a cargo ship but tied to two other boats about the same size as Limbo.  We would be rafted three abreast the largest one in the middle.   Our starboard side was the only side needed for lines to secure to the walls inside the locks. 

The canal has 6 locks and is 50 miles long.  The first three raise you 85 feet and let you out into Gatun Lake.  There you spend the night moored onto a buoy with another boat.  The adviser leaves and a different one returns at around 6:30 a.m.to start your 30 mile trek to the second set of 3 locks which lowers you into the Pacific Ocean.  The boat in the middle named “Shellback” is 53’ also custom built, sail boat made from steel.  They’re from California where he spent almost 20 years building his boat.  The boat tied to the other side of them was named “McPellican”.   A 42’ Whitby ketch, the very same type of boat we had the first time we went cruising.  They were from Australia.

I thought it odd that we had a boat like we used to have and a boat that was “owner” built with us to do the transit….. past and present meeting….

All of us rafted together we enter the first lock.  The man throws the monkey fist down for us to secure the line on our boat.  Mark had the bow and I had the stern.  He did fantastic.  I on the other hand tied a terrific bowline only I didn’t tie it to the line!  The man on the wall is shouting “the line”, “the line”, with the gates closing and water began swirling as it entered the chamber.  Quickly I remedied the knot problem before we crashed into the wall taking the other two boats with us.  Ok, first lock down, 5 left!  The adviser on the middle boat was the one doing the commands, he having the best vantage point to see all three and both walls.  All three boats have engines on but the middle boat is the one controlling the flotilla.  The outside boats have the lines to the canal wall.  The ship in front of us has trains that maneuver them.   Next lock, the water current so strong I was unable to handle the line and Don had to come to the rescue.  His quick thinking and strength wrapped it around the winch to secure it.  Ok, 4 locks left!  Fortunately, the last one for the day went fine and we tied up to the buoy, had a terrific dinner and some chocolates to celebrate Valentines Day. 

The next morning, new advisor, same thing, move on quickly, raft with other boats and off we go.  This time I’m ready.  Everybody was at the ready, Darla at the helm, Mark at the bow, Dad at the stern with me.  Don ready to extend a hand were needed.  Before rafting we traveled approximately 30 miles through the man made cut to the entrance of the next set of locks.  We were able to see the continuous dredging to maintain the depth and where they intend to put a new set of locks to accommodate the larger ships being built.  According to local information, the canal sends through more than 13 thousand ships a year, the average toll for each one about $100,000.  Some more, some less, that is the average price for a container ship.  Another piece of trivia, they all have to pay in cash! 

The next three locks went without incident.  I’m not sure what I was expecting once we got to the Pacific, maybe horns blowing, corks popping, not sure.  We were all beaming with smiles ear to ear.  We had done it!  Don and I looked at each other in silent appreciation and loud sigh of relief, it was over.  We did it and have probably 500 pictures of the event.  So many, that all the ships started looking alike.  But, we were there, passed under the Bridge of the Americas and ready for new adventures. 

The Final on Panama: Part III

February 16^th, we only had one more day with my dad so we were picked up by a local tour guide at 9:00 a.m.  and whisked off to see as much of the city as possible.  We went to Casco Antiguo, the old town of Panama City which was built behind a wall in the early 1600’s.  A huge restoration of the area is underway.  It was another fascinating walk through history and architecture similar to Old San Juan in Puerto Rico and the French Quarter in New Orleans.  We went to an artisans craft center for souvenirs and had lunch at a fish market dining on ceviche and fried fish.  The noise and throngs of people haggling over how to cut it and pricing, brought back delightful memories for me and my “fishmonger” days in Henderson.  Onto Ancon Hill, an old American facility with a tainted past but a fantastic view of the city.  Then to Mira Flores, the last lock on the Pacific side to stand as spectators watching the ships go through.  This is a great facility with museum, a 3D movie of the canal, and a simulator you can act like you’re piloting one of the container ships through the locks.  A good time but the day was over and we had to say goodbye to Dad. 

The rest of us went to dinner and then back to the boat.  An early morning departure also awaited us for we were off to the Las Perlas Islands about 35 miles off the coast.  Our first anchorage we met up with old cruising friends and had a fajita feast on Limbo catching up with their experience thus far in the Pacific.  We did a lot of beach combing because the water temperature is much colder than the Caribbean.  We did attempt some snorkeling one day, but not for very long.  Back to beach combing and hunting for the perfect piece of sand glass.  Darla’s treasure bag needed wheels.   These islands have beautiful rock formations from lava to limestone and color variations white to black with everything in between.  I am completely fascinated by the rocks here and could spend hours just looking at them.  They’re strikingly beautiful. 

We spent 4 days with Mark and Darla tooling around giving them some true “boat life” experiences.  We needed gasoline for the dinghy so we all went to a small village, Pedro Gonzales.  There in front of the store where you buy the gas was a cluster of white looking balls hanging on a line in the sun.  The woman sitting in front of the store took something out of her bag and handed them to Don and me.  They were the same as what was hanging.  She showed us how to peel and eat it.  I handed mine to Mark.  They were sun dried Iguana eggs!  Mark spent a bit of time trying not to choke his back up it was so putrid.  Don didn’t have words to describe the flavor but asked that we not ever buy any.

February 21^st, time to head back to the city to celebrate Darla’s birthday and say our goodbyes.  It has been so good to have all of them for the trip through the canal and to share with them our alternative lifestyle.  It’s quite different than what they’re used to at home and all of them did exceptionally well.  We loved having them and hope they will visit again in a different port. 

The next two days for us was spent provisioning, refueling, getting Don’s computer fixed, and laundry.  A weather window was approaching to give favorable winds all the way to Ecuador and we did not want to miss it.  Boat stocked, fueled and cleaned we went back to the Perlas to explore some more while we waited for weather.  Again we met up with our friends and had a fantastic barbeque on the beach with our own “immunity idol” hanging from a coconut palm (something used in the TV show Survivors)  We had been to Isla Mogomogo where the show was going to be filmed or it had been filmed there, not sure which.  The next island San Jose offered quite a different dining experience.  It was the best food we’d had for our entire Panama visit.  This view, the food, the resort, was like the old TV show “Fantasy Island” where literally the only way to the island is by plane or boat.  It’s called Hacienda del Mar, look it up, book a room, stay forever.   Wild Macaws and parrots are frequent visitors since they have huge feeding bins sitting out for them.  There is also a local toucan that will sit next to you for a french fry or mar chino cherry.  Such beautiful birds.  The islands keep getting more interesting as we travel down the island chain aiming for our jump point into open water and onward to Ecuador. 

We needed to top off our fuel one last time, try to find some internet for one last weather report and contact the kids to let them know our float plan.  All of these turned to be an adventure in itself.  “The Can You Hear Me Now” ad campaign could have used us!  Ever travel on a boat with your smart phone wrapped in plastic and hoisted up a 55’ mast to get a signal?  How about chasing signal from bow to stern with your arms in the air shouting at the person on the other end trying to explain you’re leaving to only have the call dropped?   Finally, the weather page came through and we were set to leave on Tuesday the 5^th of March.  Next up, fuel.  We’d heard you could get fuel on Isle Rey in the pueblo (village) San Miguel.  This was curious since everyone we asked had no idea where that might happen.  Through constant searching, and poor Spanish, we found a man who lived in a very lime green house on the side of a hill that had a key to the diesel supply room used for the town’s generator.  He graciously consented to selling us some at a good price and cash of course.   No luck on the call to kids. 

Our last anchorage we were alone.  We were the only boat of 20 or more not doing what they call the “puddle jump” which is from Panama to the Galapagos, then a 35 to 40 days sail across the Pacific to the Marquises and down the South Pacific Islands onto Australia, New Zealand, etc.  Our intentions are to sail 5 days to Ecuador and then circumnavigate South America going around the ill-famed Cape Horn.  The other boats doing the puddle jump chose Esmeralda to depart from.  They were also leaving on Sunday and we were leaving on Tuesday.  We anchored at Isla Cana, put the dinghy on deck and stayed aboard for two days watching “The Game of Thrones”.  I’ve read the books and one of the cruisers had the shows taped so they gave us a copy.  Great show and great to have had the time to rest before our next journey, crossing the equator into Ecuador.  We opened the champagne, toasted the passage thus far and cheered for the new ones ahead.

Bocas del Toro, Panama, & Volcan Baru

Bocas del Toro, Panama  November 10, 2012 to current

November 9, 2012 – Land ho, land ho.  The end of the rainbow is in sight.  After the last two months of island hopping, approximately 1050 nautical miles, from Isla Mujeres to Roatan to Providencia to San Andrés, we were looking forward to a land of plenty.  My beloved peanut butter was running low, the popcorn down to one bag, and absolutely no M&M’s left! 

We had heard so much about the Bocas del Toro area my expectations were high; dreams of food shelves gleaming with cleanliness, products with expiration dates, and identifiable meat.   And real milk, the one from the refrigerator section.  Yes, this was in my mind.   Even at my age, I can manage to build quite the bubble!  There is plenty here, and much more than what was available on previous islands.  It’s just not quite what I envisioned.  To get to the super stores, you take your dinghy or water taxi to Bocas, then a 30 minute water taxi from Bocas to Almirante, then a four hour bus ride to David.  There you’ll find a Super Rey, Arrocha, Price Mart, and Conway, all equivalents to Kroger, Walgreens, and Sam’s, and Target.  The only clincher, once you buy all the things you think you MUST have, you now have to get them back to your boat.  A one day turnaround is tough.  There are shoppers that will get the items for you and deliver for a small fee, or you can shop yourself and they’ll meet you to pick up your items and deliver the next day, sometimes same day, for a minimal fee.  The area has such a large expat community that chandler /concierge services have been established to accommodate most needs.  The archipelago has people living on the majority of the islands which all need supplies delivered.  There are so many islands with beautiful mangrove coves, it would take a year or more to fully explore.  Local knowledge is a definite must.  As with our previous sailing experience, when you are in a community such as this, there is a “net” via VHF radio every morning at 7:45 a.m. for general information sharing. 

We had many projects that needed to be done so we stayed the first day at an anchorage while we price checked marinas.  The next day into Marina Carenero we go.  The intention was to stay a week and then move on.  It took three weeks for our sail to be repaired; it rained for three weeks so painting and putting non-skid on the swim platform was difficult.  We skipped on the solar panels because of the logistics in getting them here from the states.    At this time we were so close to the holidays we just stayed.  I am glad we did.  If you have to be away from home for the holidays it’s nice to be with so many other people experiencing the same.  Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the New Year were spent making memories with new friends and great food we can share with our families on future holidays.

We have taken a couple inland trips while here; one to Panama City for three days where we purchased the ultimate in electronics, a “Samsung Galaxy III” smart phone.  We also went to the Pacific side to check out marinas and facilities for when we cross through the Panama Canal.  What a beautiful city this is.  Bigger than the last time we were here.  It is phenomenal to look from one side of the taxi and see the Pacific and look out the other to see the Atlantic.  

The next trip we took was through the mountains all the way up to Cerro Punta to a small resort called Los Quetzals.  We stayed in a cabin with no electricity except for a battery that ironically powered a router so we could have internet!  There was a wood burning stove for heat and gas lanterns for light.  It is located approximately 7500 feet above sea level so we went from wearing shorts to jackets.  Wow…just to soak up where we were and what we were doing, will take me some time to articulate.  The lushness with the variety of green foliage, the orchids offering splashes of color from within the density of the jungle, the waterfalls cascading down the mountain with such velocity making sound reverberate off the trees creating an echo.  The cool, crispness of the air, the sound of birds made me notice the quiet of my own mind, unable to process all the beauty. This area, this place, is magical.  To be there, to see a jungle, hear the birds, the waterfalls, the rushing streams with water cresting over river worn boulders, is breathtaking.  Green is not just green, the waterfalls not just a waterfall, and the river flowing over the rocks through the gorge, down the mountain was life sustaining, not just a river.  I do not know that I can convey the treasure of that experience. Many come here to bird watch for the famed “Quetzal”, national bird of Guatemala.  We came to fly fish for trout and to revisit the areas we had seen 15 years ago, magical then magical now.  I am new to fly fishing but love the casting, the rhythm required to land the bug in just the right spot to entice the fish.  To my screaming delight, I and Captain Don both caught one!  If there were monkeys watching I’m sure they were glad the loud intruder was leaving once the fish were caught!

Onto the next place, Sitio Barriles, offering petroglyphs dating back 2600 years.  Run by a woman named Edna and her son.  A fantastic tour with a theme on energy obtained from the stones and the river that flows backwards, yes, folks this river runs uphill for about 400 meters.  Excellent tour, had opportunity to hug a rock, pick citronella, did not know it was a grass, eat some of the original pink bananas people began eating from the jungle, which is mostly black seeds, you just chew them up and swallow.  Supposedly is good for your digestive tract!  And it was.  Went into Volcan to the Volcan Lodge were it had been recommended we eat lunch at "Mana" an excellent choice.  Food and service was fantastic. 

Next stop Boquete.  While doing a tour looking for a hotel, we drove by a rock wall that looked like 4x4's irregularly stacked. It was formed by a lava flow that had cooled rapidly.  We had dinner at Chinese place touted on the internet as very good.  Eh, not so good.  Hotel Fundadores had beds for the night.   Made reservations for the 8:00 a.m. zip line at the Boquete tree trek!

We were up and out the door by 7 a.m.  (I had been up what seemed forever so excited for this part of the trip.)  We tried to find breakfast before the zip line but found nothing.  Places do not open till 7:30 or 8:30 for breakfast.  So we drive to zip line thinking the hotel there would be open.  Wrong.  No reception area open, no restaurant, you would have thought it was deserted except for the few vehicles scattered here and there on the property.  Finally around 8:00 a.m. someone showed, opened the door put on a fresh pot of coffee and started cooking for us.  We registered for the ride and before long the guides were there taking us up the mountain.  OMG if ever there was a roller coaster ride like this the lines would never end.  They would be sending people home for closing time.  It was phenomenal, 14 platforms, 160 feet in the air, the longest cable being 1600 feet long stretched over a river, all were stretched through the jungle canopy, cylinder openings large enough for you to speed by at 30 mph within inches of branches if you so desired to move your hand out to touch one.  I could not get the smile off my face.  Either plastered there from velocity or shear excitement, it was without a doubt the best ride I've ever experienced.  Next up, shopping in David.  We stop in the town of Boquete after our zip line for a strawberry shake, made with fresh cream and fresh berries.  The area has strawberry stops the way US has coffee stops.  They offer them with fresh cream, the local chocolate, or wine, some places make shakes, jams, and cakes.

A long day, zip line, shopping, dinner done, it was time to call it a night and the end of a fantastic trip.  We leave David at 6 a.m. in order to return the rental car on time and catch a water taxi back to our boats with all our goodies. 

The rest of our stay in Bocas del Toro has been busy with holiday festivities, starting with a winter Solstice party and ending with a pre-new year’s eve party, skipping new years eve.  We’ve had walks along the beach, anchored in several different coves, snorkeled, and have worked on learning some Spanish.  As of today, January 5^th, we continue to wait for a weather window south to the San Blas Islands.  We’ve hired an agent to handle our canal crossing which we hope to do by the end of January, so we might have to skip the San Blas.  We shall see...