Vegetable Ivory, Hats, and Tuna?

Quite a title isn't it?  Vegetable Ivory is actually a tagua nut that comes from this area as well as Panama and Columbia.  A remarkable thing that can be carved into jewelry, small statues, chess sets, and many other beautiful pieces of work.  We met some of the best carvers in Ecuador during a shopping excursion in a small town called Sosote.

tagua nut casing
usually found at base of tree

seeds used for carving

Miquel and his camera shy friend are the best carvers in the area

each monkey is separate nut then glued together

The Panama Hat is a story Ecuador has never quite gotten credit for.  The following is the story from the cab driver:  During the building of the Panama Canal an exiled Ecuadorian president noticed the men were not wearing hats.  He contacted his friends in Montecristi and had them send what they had.  He made a lot of money selling hats to the workers.  When President Roosevelt came to Panama for a visit he noticed the hats and had to have one.  One was given to him as a gift and when he returned to New York, a picture was taken of him with his Panama Hat.  The End.  The hats however have always been made in Ecuador out of toquilla straw, supposedly the finest straw on earth right here in Montecriste.  They range from fine to super fino, the tighter the weave the better quality hat and the more expensive.  They can take a week to several months of daily work for just one hat.  I believe I read that Queen Elizabeth even has a Panama Hat as well as several celebrities. While on our shopping excursion, Captain Don was on his own quest to find his very own Panama Hat.

Lonely Planet's suggested place of purchase "Jose Chavez Franco"

The Hat!  They come with a special hat bag and a balsa box that you can literally roll your hat into. (the weave is so fine that when it's rolled and unrolled there are no creases)

TUNA:  We have now seen where "Bumble Bee" and host of other tuna companies have packing houses.  Manta is known as the tuna capital of the world.  Wooden tuna boats are still built on the beaches and as far as I could see, there were boats.  All of them after the same fish!  Amazing, no wonder it's such an expensive fish!

That was quite a day of shopping,  (How often do you think he'll wear the hat?)

Onto Ecuador but first, we become Shellbacks

     Cross the Equator gain a name:   

     Tuesday, March 5, 2013 left anchorage at Isla Caña an island in the Las Perlas off the coast of Panama 8:10 a.m.  Sails set, motor off, sun shining, seas calm, winds at a mild 15 knots. We waited an extra two days for the weather window before we headed out towards Ecuador.  Feeling jittery and exhilarated upon departure, this would be our first overnight sail in the Pacific ocean, a five day trip.   Not only does Ecuador signify the beginning of our South America circumnavigation but, we would be crossing the equator and becoming "shellbacks".

     The term shellback has been used as far back as the mid 1800's for someone who has sailed across the equator.  Ceremonies are performed to initiate the newbie into the Kingdom of Neptune - the legendary god of the seas.  The following is from http://www.desausa.org:

   

 "Pollywog to Shellback - In the U.S. Navy, when a ship crosses the equator a time-honored ceremony takes place. This is a Navy tradition and an event no sailor ever forgets.  With few exceptions, those who have been inducted into the "mysteries of the deep" by Neptunus Rex and his Royal court, count the experience as a highlight of their naval career.  Members of Neptunus Rex's party usually include Davy Jones, Neptune's first assistant, Her Highness Amphitrite, the Royal Scribe, the Royal Doctor, the Royal Dentist,  the Royal Baby, the Royal Navigator, the Royal Chaplain, the Royal Judge, Attorneys, Barbers and other names that suit the party.

     Officially recognized by service record entries indicating date, time, latitude and longitude, the crossing of the equator involves elaborate preparation by the "shellbacks" (those who have crossed the equator before) to ensure the "pollywogs" (those who are about to cross the equator for the first time) are properly indoctrinated. All pollywogs, even the Commanding Officer if he has not crossed before, must participate. 

     Once the ceremony is complete a certificate is presented to the new "Shellbacks".

     Some of the stories for initiation are ones of horror and tortuous pain.  We on the s/v Limbo toasted the occasion with mimosas and Aretha Franklins', "Say a Little Prayer".   Truly a fantastic moment. 

 

Equator crossing at 00.00.26 S & 80.33.49 W at 8:38 am Saturday, April 9, 2013

We did it hon.

  Below is a modified certificate for Limbo.   

TO ALL SAILORS WHEREVER YE MAY BE:    and to all Mermaids, Whales, Sea Serpents, Porpoises, Sharks, Dolphins, Eels, Skates, Suckers, Crabs, Lobsters, and all other Living Things of the Sea. 
GREETINGS:  Know ye That on this ninth day of April, 2013, in Latitude 0000 and Longitude 80 ^o33' W there appeared within Our Royal Domain the s/v LIMBO bound SW for the Equator and for South America. 

BE IT REMEMBERED

That the said Vessel and Officers and Crew thereof have been inspected and passed on by Ourself and Our Royal Staff 

AND BE IT KNOWN By all ye Sailors, Marines, Land Lubbers and others who may be honored by his presence that 
 

Donald D Bylsma

having been found worthy to be numbered as one of our Trusty Shellbacks he has been duly initiated into the 

SOLEMN MYSTERIES OF THE ANCIENT ORDER OF THE DEEP

BE IT FURTHER UNDERSTOOD That by virtue of the power invested in me I do hereby command all my subjects to show due honor and respect to him wherever he may be. 

Disobey this order under penalty of Our Royal Displeasure

Given under our hand and seal this 9^th day of April, 2013. 

Signed

Neptunus Rex 
Ruler of the Raging Main 
       

And don't forget me, I was there too.
Greetings to all Shellbacks:

This is to Certify, that Only Mate Rita Bylsma aboard s/v Limbo was duly initiated into the Solemn Mysteries of the Ancient Order of the Deep and made a worthy Shellback in our Royal Dominion at 00°00’26 South and 80°33’49 West on Saturday the 9th of April 2013

Neptunus Rex Ruler of the Raging Main
Official: Captain Don Bylsma Commanding Officer, Limbo

Next up:  Bahia Caráquez, first port of call in Ecuador -  

Panama, three part finale

More from Panama:  Part I

It’s been so long since I’ve written and so much has happened.  It’s now March 7, 2013 and we are currently on our way to Ecuador, a 5 day passage, the first opportunity I’ve had to write since my last post in January.  We’ve had company for 22 days, sailed to the San Blas Islands, hiked Fort San Lorenzo, transited the Panama Canal, seen the old city of Panama, Ancon Hill, sailed to the Las Perlas Islands, had dinner in the most incredible resort I’ve ever seen, walked all around Isla Mogomogo famous as an island used in the “Survivor” TV series, saw huge bats, a toucan, and wild macaws.  Had a barbeque on the beach with other boaters, bought diesel from a man in a lime green house, learned about the delectable iguana egg, and finally got to watch both seasons of “the Game of Thrones” in an anchorage with wild parrots flying by.  We’ve been busy, busy.

We’ll start with my dad’s visit beginning January 31^st.  We shopped the local town of Colon, beach combed for sand glass, walked out the jetties to see all the ships awaiting their transit on the Atlantic/Caribbean side.  If you can see a full mile, there were ships to fill the space.  Maybe a hundred or more at any given time of day awaiting their turn to go to the Pacific.  We also toured Fort Sherman, an abandoned military base with some of the buildings left from WWI.  While walking inside the halls of barracks, an unsettling feeling arose.  Don shone his light above and hundreds of bats took flight screaming!  Nope, sorry they were screeching, I was screaming.  (I really dislike bats!) Next up was a short trip to the San Blas Islands while we waited for sister Darla and husband Mark to also join us for the canal transit.

The San Blas islands are some of the prettiest in the Caribbean, white sandy beaches lined with coconut palms, the locals still living in thatched roof and bamboo huts, every sailor’s vision.  Water color the same as your backyard swimming pool only looking closer you’re likely to see stingrays in flight skimming the surface of the sandy bottom, dazzling orange, gold, red starfish scattered across the seabed the way the stars light up the night sky.  Purple coral the shape of fans swaying gently with the current, or in the shape of trees with out leaves, or giant ice cream cones you could put your head in, each a brilliant color belonging to only them.  Life is very simple on these islands even though they have been encroached upon with tourism.  The Kuna Indians still maintain their indigenous style of dress and culture sharing their art and way of life. (They are the second shortest people in the world with a fascinating culture, worth looking up)

Dad was amazed at their generosity and beauty.  A fisherman came to visit us and I told him how much I enjoyed the local “congrejo” crab.  The following morning he came back with a huge crab and two lobsters.  Dad gave him $20 for all three and we had a seafood feast like none other.  Although it was a short visit it was good to see the San Blas again.  It’s time to head back to Shelter Bay Marina to pick up Darla and Mark.

They arrived mid-morning February 12^th, with only a day and half left for the transit.  In order to transit each boat has to have 4 line handlers, the captain, and the advisor onboard.  The line handlers would be my dad, Mark, Darla, and me.   All three had to learn how to tie a bowline knot, a requirement for line handlers going through the canal.  A monkey fist is thrown from the wall down to your boat and you tie a bowline in it around the 125’ line on your boat which they then pull up the wall to secure your boat.  An hour or more of knot lessons we were ready to do something else so off to the beach for sand glass and shell hunting.

  

I must say at this point Don and I were getting a bit nervous, worrying about the transit, our novice boating line handlers, leaving behind the Caribbean and sailing into the Pacific, a whole new world and experience for us.  No time left to worry making sure Limbo is ready, our guest trained and having a good time.  One day left so we all went for a tour of Fort San Lorenzo built in the 1600’s to protect the gold and treasures being pirated back to Spain from all over South and Central America.  (Another interesting bit of history to look up)  Supposedly the famed pirate Henry Morgan destroyed the place.  That pirate got around!  I walked through the remaining halls, looked at the mote and old cannons.  Soaking up the panoramic vista I wondered about the men that stood here so many years ago.  I searched the stone for names etched from that time and found none. 

Back to the marina, a final look over Limbo, out to dinner, and a good sleep for the next days adventure.

 Panama Canal Transit: Part II

February 14, 2013 a big day for Limbo and her crew.  Crossing through a country from one ocean to another on a boat built with your own two hands!  Not only does it float it is now traveling under the Bridge of the Americas coming through one of the world’s wonders, the Panama Canal.  Definitely a “bucket list” item we can now scratch off. 

All hands on deck, lines and tires (tires are used as fenders) secured, goodbyes and best wishes extended, Limbo was off to the “flats” (an anchorage used as a holding pattern) to await an adviser from the canal authorities.   The adviser literally leaped from the pilot boat onto ours and immediately gave instructions to anchor up and head in.  We would be entering behind a cargo ship but tied to two other boats about the same size as Limbo.  We would be rafted three abreast the largest one in the middle.   Our starboard side was the only side needed for lines to secure to the walls inside the locks. 

The canal has 6 locks and is 50 miles long.  The first three raise you 85 feet and let you out into Gatun Lake.  There you spend the night moored onto a buoy with another boat.  The adviser leaves and a different one returns at around 6:30 a.m.to start your 30 mile trek to the second set of 3 locks which lowers you into the Pacific Ocean.  The boat in the middle named “Shellback” is 53’ also custom built, sail boat made from steel.  They’re from California where he spent almost 20 years building his boat.  The boat tied to the other side of them was named “McPellican”.   A 42’ Whitby ketch, the very same type of boat we had the first time we went cruising.  They were from Australia.

I thought it odd that we had a boat like we used to have and a boat that was “owner” built with us to do the transit….. past and present meeting….

All of us rafted together we enter the first lock.  The man throws the monkey fist down for us to secure the line on our boat.  Mark had the bow and I had the stern.  He did fantastic.  I on the other hand tied a terrific bowline only I didn’t tie it to the line!  The man on the wall is shouting “the line”, “the line”, with the gates closing and water began swirling as it entered the chamber.  Quickly I remedied the knot problem before we crashed into the wall taking the other two boats with us.  Ok, first lock down, 5 left!  The adviser on the middle boat was the one doing the commands, he having the best vantage point to see all three and both walls.  All three boats have engines on but the middle boat is the one controlling the flotilla.  The outside boats have the lines to the canal wall.  The ship in front of us has trains that maneuver them.   Next lock, the water current so strong I was unable to handle the line and Don had to come to the rescue.  His quick thinking and strength wrapped it around the winch to secure it.  Ok, 4 locks left!  Fortunately, the last one for the day went fine and we tied up to the buoy, had a terrific dinner and some chocolates to celebrate Valentines Day. 

The next morning, new advisor, same thing, move on quickly, raft with other boats and off we go.  This time I’m ready.  Everybody was at the ready, Darla at the helm, Mark at the bow, Dad at the stern with me.  Don ready to extend a hand were needed.  Before rafting we traveled approximately 30 miles through the man made cut to the entrance of the next set of locks.  We were able to see the continuous dredging to maintain the depth and where they intend to put a new set of locks to accommodate the larger ships being built.  According to local information, the canal sends through more than 13 thousand ships a year, the average toll for each one about $100,000.  Some more, some less, that is the average price for a container ship.  Another piece of trivia, they all have to pay in cash! 

The next three locks went without incident.  I’m not sure what I was expecting once we got to the Pacific, maybe horns blowing, corks popping, not sure.  We were all beaming with smiles ear to ear.  We had done it!  Don and I looked at each other in silent appreciation and loud sigh of relief, it was over.  We did it and have probably 500 pictures of the event.  So many, that all the ships started looking alike.  But, we were there, passed under the Bridge of the Americas and ready for new adventures. 

The Final on Panama: Part III

February 16^th, we only had one more day with my dad so we were picked up by a local tour guide at 9:00 a.m.  and whisked off to see as much of the city as possible.  We went to Casco Antiguo, the old town of Panama City which was built behind a wall in the early 1600’s.  A huge restoration of the area is underway.  It was another fascinating walk through history and architecture similar to Old San Juan in Puerto Rico and the French Quarter in New Orleans.  We went to an artisans craft center for souvenirs and had lunch at a fish market dining on ceviche and fried fish.  The noise and throngs of people haggling over how to cut it and pricing, brought back delightful memories for me and my “fishmonger” days in Henderson.  Onto Ancon Hill, an old American facility with a tainted past but a fantastic view of the city.  Then to Mira Flores, the last lock on the Pacific side to stand as spectators watching the ships go through.  This is a great facility with museum, a 3D movie of the canal, and a simulator you can act like you’re piloting one of the container ships through the locks.  A good time but the day was over and we had to say goodbye to Dad. 

The rest of us went to dinner and then back to the boat.  An early morning departure also awaited us for we were off to the Las Perlas Islands about 35 miles off the coast.  Our first anchorage we met up with old cruising friends and had a fajita feast on Limbo catching up with their experience thus far in the Pacific.  We did a lot of beach combing because the water temperature is much colder than the Caribbean.  We did attempt some snorkeling one day, but not for very long.  Back to beach combing and hunting for the perfect piece of sand glass.  Darla’s treasure bag needed wheels.   These islands have beautiful rock formations from lava to limestone and color variations white to black with everything in between.  I am completely fascinated by the rocks here and could spend hours just looking at them.  They’re strikingly beautiful. 

We spent 4 days with Mark and Darla tooling around giving them some true “boat life” experiences.  We needed gasoline for the dinghy so we all went to a small village, Pedro Gonzales.  There in front of the store where you buy the gas was a cluster of white looking balls hanging on a line in the sun.  The woman sitting in front of the store took something out of her bag and handed them to Don and me.  They were the same as what was hanging.  She showed us how to peel and eat it.  I handed mine to Mark.  They were sun dried Iguana eggs!  Mark spent a bit of time trying not to choke his back up it was so putrid.  Don didn’t have words to describe the flavor but asked that we not ever buy any.

February 21^st, time to head back to the city to celebrate Darla’s birthday and say our goodbyes.  It has been so good to have all of them for the trip through the canal and to share with them our alternative lifestyle.  It’s quite different than what they’re used to at home and all of them did exceptionally well.  We loved having them and hope they will visit again in a different port. 

The next two days for us was spent provisioning, refueling, getting Don’s computer fixed, and laundry.  A weather window was approaching to give favorable winds all the way to Ecuador and we did not want to miss it.  Boat stocked, fueled and cleaned we went back to the Perlas to explore some more while we waited for weather.  Again we met up with our friends and had a fantastic barbeque on the beach with our own “immunity idol” hanging from a coconut palm (something used in the TV show Survivors)  We had been to Isla Mogomogo where the show was going to be filmed or it had been filmed there, not sure which.  The next island San Jose offered quite a different dining experience.  It was the best food we’d had for our entire Panama visit.  This view, the food, the resort, was like the old TV show “Fantasy Island” where literally the only way to the island is by plane or boat.  It’s called Hacienda del Mar, look it up, book a room, stay forever.   Wild Macaws and parrots are frequent visitors since they have huge feeding bins sitting out for them.  There is also a local toucan that will sit next to you for a french fry or mar chino cherry.  Such beautiful birds.  The islands keep getting more interesting as we travel down the island chain aiming for our jump point into open water and onward to Ecuador. 

We needed to top off our fuel one last time, try to find some internet for one last weather report and contact the kids to let them know our float plan.  All of these turned to be an adventure in itself.  “The Can You Hear Me Now” ad campaign could have used us!  Ever travel on a boat with your smart phone wrapped in plastic and hoisted up a 55’ mast to get a signal?  How about chasing signal from bow to stern with your arms in the air shouting at the person on the other end trying to explain you’re leaving to only have the call dropped?   Finally, the weather page came through and we were set to leave on Tuesday the 5^th of March.  Next up, fuel.  We’d heard you could get fuel on Isle Rey in the pueblo (village) San Miguel.  This was curious since everyone we asked had no idea where that might happen.  Through constant searching, and poor Spanish, we found a man who lived in a very lime green house on the side of a hill that had a key to the diesel supply room used for the town’s generator.  He graciously consented to selling us some at a good price and cash of course.   No luck on the call to kids. 

Our last anchorage we were alone.  We were the only boat of 20 or more not doing what they call the “puddle jump” which is from Panama to the Galapagos, then a 35 to 40 days sail across the Pacific to the Marquises and down the South Pacific Islands onto Australia, New Zealand, etc.  Our intentions are to sail 5 days to Ecuador and then circumnavigate South America going around the ill-famed Cape Horn.  The other boats doing the puddle jump chose Esmeralda to depart from.  They were also leaving on Sunday and we were leaving on Tuesday.  We anchored at Isla Cana, put the dinghy on deck and stayed aboard for two days watching “The Game of Thrones”.  I’ve read the books and one of the cruisers had the shows taped so they gave us a copy.  Great show and great to have had the time to rest before our next journey, crossing the equator into Ecuador.  We opened the champagne, toasted the passage thus far and cheered for the new ones ahead.

Bocas del Toro, Panama, & Volcan Baru

Bocas del Toro, Panama  November 10, 2012 to current

November 9, 2012 – Land ho, land ho.  The end of the rainbow is in sight.  After the last two months of island hopping, approximately 1050 nautical miles, from Isla Mujeres to Roatan to Providencia to San Andrés, we were looking forward to a land of plenty.  My beloved peanut butter was running low, the popcorn down to one bag, and absolutely no M&M’s left! 

We had heard so much about the Bocas del Toro area my expectations were high; dreams of food shelves gleaming with cleanliness, products with expiration dates, and identifiable meat.   And real milk, the one from the refrigerator section.  Yes, this was in my mind.   Even at my age, I can manage to build quite the bubble!  There is plenty here, and much more than what was available on previous islands.  It’s just not quite what I envisioned.  To get to the super stores, you take your dinghy or water taxi to Bocas, then a 30 minute water taxi from Bocas to Almirante, then a four hour bus ride to David.  There you’ll find a Super Rey, Arrocha, Price Mart, and Conway, all equivalents to Kroger, Walgreens, and Sam’s, and Target.  The only clincher, once you buy all the things you think you MUST have, you now have to get them back to your boat.  A one day turnaround is tough.  There are shoppers that will get the items for you and deliver for a small fee, or you can shop yourself and they’ll meet you to pick up your items and deliver the next day, sometimes same day, for a minimal fee.  The area has such a large expat community that chandler /concierge services have been established to accommodate most needs.  The archipelago has people living on the majority of the islands which all need supplies delivered.  There are so many islands with beautiful mangrove coves, it would take a year or more to fully explore.  Local knowledge is a definite must.  As with our previous sailing experience, when you are in a community such as this, there is a “net” via VHF radio every morning at 7:45 a.m. for general information sharing. 

We had many projects that needed to be done so we stayed the first day at an anchorage while we price checked marinas.  The next day into Marina Carenero we go.  The intention was to stay a week and then move on.  It took three weeks for our sail to be repaired; it rained for three weeks so painting and putting non-skid on the swim platform was difficult.  We skipped on the solar panels because of the logistics in getting them here from the states.    At this time we were so close to the holidays we just stayed.  I am glad we did.  If you have to be away from home for the holidays it’s nice to be with so many other people experiencing the same.  Thanksgiving, Christmas, and the New Year were spent making memories with new friends and great food we can share with our families on future holidays.

We have taken a couple inland trips while here; one to Panama City for three days where we purchased the ultimate in electronics, a “Samsung Galaxy III” smart phone.  We also went to the Pacific side to check out marinas and facilities for when we cross through the Panama Canal.  What a beautiful city this is.  Bigger than the last time we were here.  It is phenomenal to look from one side of the taxi and see the Pacific and look out the other to see the Atlantic.  

The next trip we took was through the mountains all the way up to Cerro Punta to a small resort called Los Quetzals.  We stayed in a cabin with no electricity except for a battery that ironically powered a router so we could have internet!  There was a wood burning stove for heat and gas lanterns for light.  It is located approximately 7500 feet above sea level so we went from wearing shorts to jackets.  Wow…just to soak up where we were and what we were doing, will take me some time to articulate.  The lushness with the variety of green foliage, the orchids offering splashes of color from within the density of the jungle, the waterfalls cascading down the mountain with such velocity making sound reverberate off the trees creating an echo.  The cool, crispness of the air, the sound of birds made me notice the quiet of my own mind, unable to process all the beauty. This area, this place, is magical.  To be there, to see a jungle, hear the birds, the waterfalls, the rushing streams with water cresting over river worn boulders, is breathtaking.  Green is not just green, the waterfalls not just a waterfall, and the river flowing over the rocks through the gorge, down the mountain was life sustaining, not just a river.  I do not know that I can convey the treasure of that experience. Many come here to bird watch for the famed “Quetzal”, national bird of Guatemala.  We came to fly fish for trout and to revisit the areas we had seen 15 years ago, magical then magical now.  I am new to fly fishing but love the casting, the rhythm required to land the bug in just the right spot to entice the fish.  To my screaming delight, I and Captain Don both caught one!  If there were monkeys watching I’m sure they were glad the loud intruder was leaving once the fish were caught!

Onto the next place, Sitio Barriles, offering petroglyphs dating back 2600 years.  Run by a woman named Edna and her son.  A fantastic tour with a theme on energy obtained from the stones and the river that flows backwards, yes, folks this river runs uphill for about 400 meters.  Excellent tour, had opportunity to hug a rock, pick citronella, did not know it was a grass, eat some of the original pink bananas people began eating from the jungle, which is mostly black seeds, you just chew them up and swallow.  Supposedly is good for your digestive tract!  And it was.  Went into Volcan to the Volcan Lodge were it had been recommended we eat lunch at "Mana" an excellent choice.  Food and service was fantastic. 

Next stop Boquete.  While doing a tour looking for a hotel, we drove by a rock wall that looked like 4x4's irregularly stacked. It was formed by a lava flow that had cooled rapidly.  We had dinner at Chinese place touted on the internet as very good.  Eh, not so good.  Hotel Fundadores had beds for the night.   Made reservations for the 8:00 a.m. zip line at the Boquete tree trek!

We were up and out the door by 7 a.m.  (I had been up what seemed forever so excited for this part of the trip.)  We tried to find breakfast before the zip line but found nothing.  Places do not open till 7:30 or 8:30 for breakfast.  So we drive to zip line thinking the hotel there would be open.  Wrong.  No reception area open, no restaurant, you would have thought it was deserted except for the few vehicles scattered here and there on the property.  Finally around 8:00 a.m. someone showed, opened the door put on a fresh pot of coffee and started cooking for us.  We registered for the ride and before long the guides were there taking us up the mountain.  OMG if ever there was a roller coaster ride like this the lines would never end.  They would be sending people home for closing time.  It was phenomenal, 14 platforms, 160 feet in the air, the longest cable being 1600 feet long stretched over a river, all were stretched through the jungle canopy, cylinder openings large enough for you to speed by at 30 mph within inches of branches if you so desired to move your hand out to touch one.  I could not get the smile off my face.  Either plastered there from velocity or shear excitement, it was without a doubt the best ride I've ever experienced.  Next up, shopping in David.  We stop in the town of Boquete after our zip line for a strawberry shake, made with fresh cream and fresh berries.  The area has strawberry stops the way US has coffee stops.  They offer them with fresh cream, the local chocolate, or wine, some places make shakes, jams, and cakes.

A long day, zip line, shopping, dinner done, it was time to call it a night and the end of a fantastic trip.  We leave David at 6 a.m. in order to return the rental car on time and catch a water taxi back to our boats with all our goodies. 

The rest of our stay in Bocas del Toro has been busy with holiday festivities, starting with a winter Solstice party and ending with a pre-new year’s eve party, skipping new years eve.  We’ve had walks along the beach, anchored in several different coves, snorkeled, and have worked on learning some Spanish.  As of today, January 5^th, we continue to wait for a weather window south to the San Blas Islands.  We’ve hired an agent to handle our canal crossing which we hope to do by the end of January, so we might have to skip the San Blas.  We shall see...

The Islands of Providencia and San Andrés Columbia

October 19, 2012 – How to describe these little jewels of the Caribbean?  The waters surrounding Isla Providencia is a national park that abounds with lobsters that all but wink while you’re snorkeling.  (They must know you can’t touch them!) The grouper and red snapper all but laugh out loud.  Everywhere I turned I started thinking of lunch instead of how beautiful.  Both islands are remote but not forgotten.  They are well provided for with boats arriving a couple times a week from Columbia with supplies.  The Columbian Navy also has a strong presence in the waters that surround these islands. 

We made it to Providencia around 3:30 pm approximately 56 hours! We made haste in lowering the dinghy and clearing in to Colombia.  It was Captain Don’s birthday so we were in quite the hurry to celebrate.  We saw another boat in the anchorage named Second Star-that had their “Q” (quarantine) flag flying. (Whenever you enter a new port of call, you fly a yellow, “Q” flag to show you’ve not cleared into the country.  Once immigration, customs, and port captain have seen you, signed your papers, stamped your passport, you remove the “Q” flag and put that country’s flag up as a courtesy)

We put the dinghy down and Don immediately zoomed over to ask if they had called the Port Captain.   Johne and Aeon were their names.  He built his boat from a burnt Hatteras hull using aluminum to rebuild.  He had called Mr. Bush the agent for clearing in, Don and they went together.  Clearing in is as simple as paying Mr. Bush $140.00 and he handles all the paperwork.  We went to town found bank for the Columbian peso.  Then started looking for a restaurant called Caribbean Place, it supposedly serves the best black crab (indigenous to the island).  Ran into Mr. bush and he hired a taxi to take us there where he left us and instructed the cab driver to return at 8:30 to get us.  What a place. Rustic, cute, old, quaint, simple plastic tables and chairs, outdoor dinning, one chef French culinary trained, and one waitress.  He had ample write ups in various newspapers all in Spanish, awards, photos, and there he was, in an old island style home on an island not very many people now about creating 5 star food, on 5 star dishes served on a plastic table that had been covered in tropical colored fabric held down by an elastic band.  A dog came in and stretched out beside us cooling her belly on the floor.  A mosquito coil was burning on the floor under the table, a lit candle the centerpiece, and a fan blew gently providing a breeze.  We had mango juice with a side of rum (interesting).  The food is beyond indescribably delicious. He enjoyed his crab so much. And it is black crab meat.

We did so much on these islands.  We had passed them up the first time around 15 years ago because we were told they were too dangerous for cruisers.  This time, throwing caution to the wind we sailed on in and what a fantastic time we had.  The two islands are completely different.  Providencia rather casual, and unhurried in any fashion, has a population of around 5000 people and no crime.  Yes, reportedly from Mr. Bush, no crime.  San Andrés is a bustling tourist destination with about 80,000 residents.  The prime mode of transportation is scooters and golf carts for both islands.

I will just use the daily journal to recap our time on these islands since I’m so far behind in my writing.  This will also give you an idea of daily life on a boat.

October 20, 2012 - Saturday - Picked up passports, got the lay of the island, found a small ice maker like we'd been looking at in the states.  Will go Monday or Tuesday and purchase.  He was unable to take US dollars, said the bank did not give him as good of rate as they do us and possibly not even exchange it for him.  Checked internet, sent emails to kids, no calls from here. Got gas for dinghy, found fish market (since we don't seem to catch our own) happy hour on Second Star.  A busy day,

October 21, 2012 - Sunday - went snorkeling, beach combing, cleaned boat, organizing some more.  I’m still learning to live on a boat with the limited space.

October 22, 2012 - Monday - back to town, found where to dump trash, bought  a new juicer, had lunch in a fabulous street side café, whole fried red snapper, rice, plantains, soup, cucumber & tomato salad. A juice we're not sure of, could have been a blend of something with tamarind.  It was very good.  Used internet.  Don took nap I did some writing.

October 23, 2012 - Tuesday - did some boat chores, rainy day, had Columbian coast guard visit boat, they wanted to know name of Captain and to see boat documentation, then Johne and Aeon from

Second Star came over had visit with them.  Went to town for internet, we’re watching hurricane Sandy.  Met up with Second Star, got on bus went to dinner at Manchineel Bay at a reggae bar.  Delicious black crab again.  Don tipped the bus driver extra to come back for us, 2 km off road.  Really ideal place.  Swings,   hammocks on the water, benches and tables made from branches, smoke pit in middle, local Rasta's smoking weed.  Quite an experience.  PiÑa coladas made in the coconut shells, top hacked off fresh with a machete just for the occasion. It was a rough night for sleeping, rain off and on, rock and rolling, hurricane Sandy building.

October 24, 2012 - Wednesday - made water all day had let tank run dry.  Don feeling sick with headache.   Hand washed some clothes. Laundry facilities are non-existing here.  Suppose to be someone on Catalina Island but we have been unable to locate her.  These islands depend entirely upon rain water which they collect during the rainy season, May through October.  Cleaned floors.  It was another rock and roll rainy night, hurricane Sandy coming in.   

October 25, 2012 - Thursday - Town day, needed off boat, quite rocky and rolling.  Rainy can't open hatches and it gets steamy hot.  Trying not to run generator and use fuel every day. Went to lunch at Lucy's, had stewed fish, delicious.   She is going to make "rondon" for us tomorrow, we'll ask Second Star to join us.  Rondon is a local delicacy made on holidays.  Since Don’s brother’s name is Ron, and his is Don, Lucy said she’d make us some “rondon”.  Saw girl from "Just Tell Me" store, place that has our ice maker said she'd get the guy to bring over our ice maker so I waited a little over an hour he was no show.  Went for a walk about found produce store, went to grocery, ATM machine, and bakery back to boat for old fashion Dominican Republic street sandwich of fried egg, avocado, cabbage on French bread with mayo & hot sauce. Yummy.

October 26, 2012 - Friday - met up with Second Star for lunch at Lucy's again had "rondon" a local dish with fish, pig feet, plantain, cornmeal dumpling, potato, yucca all steamed in coconut milk like a pot roast.  Delicious, served with side of rice.  Went to fish market bought red snapper, picked up ice machine.  We reserved a Little Mule 4 wheeler for tomorrow with Second Star to tour the island.  Anchorage is still rocking a lot from hurricane Sandy.

October 27, 2012 - Saturday - 8:00 a.m. picked up Little Mule 4wd we're ready for a big day.  We went round the entire island, all the side streets, and every little dirt indentation that looked passable.  We found the water reservoir with dam.  Tried to get to mountain peak where you can see Caribbean but needed a guide, 50,000 pesos, too much we thought.  Then tried to get up to cell towers, could not, guarded by the military.  Had lunch at Caribbean place again I had black crab sandwich, delicious.  Got 60 gallons fuel took to boat, had nap and around 4pm up to tour again.  Second Star did not want to go so we went alone, around island again.   Went to restaurant called "Deep Blue" wow, what a place on the water, it's a hotel and restaurant that just opened in August, owned by an Columbian woman married to an Englishman.  We watched the sunset, saw a local fisherman cleaning huge snapper on the rocks, and a rather large lobster.  Another couple from Columbia had hired him to take them snorkeling at the light house about 10 miles out.  While they snorkeled, he fished.  They took half the snapper and the lobster for the restaurant to cook for them.  Presentation of food was 5 stars.  We had piÑa coladas and a three cheese pizza; brie, feta, & blue drizzled with a red wine reduction sauce.  That was a pizza.  We spent the evening talking to the couple from Columbia about their country, ours, kids, and life.  It was a very special evening.

October 28, 2012 - Sunday - stay on boat day for me, tried to find black mat that blew off swim platform.  Visibility at zero will try again before we leave. Storm still has water stirred up. Don was helping Second Star with his air conditioning.  They will be leaving tomorrow for San Andrés to pick up Johne's brother.

October 29, 2012 - Monday -thought we'd snorkel new area today.  Started out in one direction decided water was too rough, turned around and headed other way. Rough as well.  We kept going.  What a ride, all the way around the island looking for reef calm enough to anchor dinghy and snorkel.  We did not find much until we got to McBean Lagoon which is the national park at the Brother Cays.  One of the hills is nesting ground for the frigate bird.  We floated atop the water just watching as the male would circle and land blowing his red throat into what looked like a balloon.  The female calmly perched pretending not to notice.  It was a spectacular sight.  We were done and back in the dinghy continuing our way around the island when a park ranger came and said we could not snorkel there, that we had to go pay the park fee and only snorkel where he showed us.  He was very pleasant and said just next time because we were snorkeling we did not carry a wallet or any money with us.  Also saw restaurant "Deep Blue" where we had the best pizza ever.  Decided it was not that far by dinghy and we could go back.  It's in Maracaibo bay.  After treacherous dinghy ride, came back to boat, showered, had lunch and a nap.  Then went to different internet café the one Second Star told us about.  Don did not like the place, it's quite a walk, much more expensive, and he got an overall distaste for the owner/place.  So we'll go to the other one to do our internet.

October 30, 2012 - Tuesday - went back to older internet café in the heart of downtown, did some more laundry by hand, little writing, little Spanish.

October 31, 2012 - Wednesday - internet, cleaned boat, walked to fort on Santa Catalina Island, explored island some, lots of stairs up to cannon and down to beach, tough walk.  This is where “Morgan’s Head” is.  A giant rock when looked at a certain way could possibly look like a man’s head.  Supposedly, the infamous pirate Henry Morgan used the island as a hideout for his treasure.  No one has ever found it. 

November 1, 2012 - Thursday - clear out with Mr. Bush, light grocery/bakery, internet, snorkeled around Santa Catalina get ready to leave.

November 2, 2012 - Friday - 6 a.m. pulling anchor, leaving for San Andrés 53 miles away.  Around 9:45 a.m. storm hit, strong 40 knot winds, tried taking in main sail, halyard got stuck, Don was on deck pulling and pulling in pouring down rain auto pilot holding. Don got sail down but rigging is damaged, sail is damaged.  He tried to pull us around into the wind, steering broke, steel master chain link pulled apart like the steel was stretched as far as it would go before breaking, (not a clean break like there was stress in it before)  this was getting scary!  I even put my life jacket on.  The auto pilot held and we managed to get to San Andrés unharmed.  Just tossed around a bit and wet.  We hailed 2nd Star to come meet us at the sea buoy just in case we were not able to drive auto pilot like a "joy stick"  they could give us a tow into the anchorage.  Fortunately, we did not need that as Don maneuvered us safely behind the reef in calm water, anchor down rum punch out within minutes telling our nerve shaking experience to Johne and Aeon. Then we went to dinner!  They showed us around town a bit and then back to the boat, shower and bed.  What a day. 

November 3, 2012 - Saturday - met with Agent Rene to clear in for another $80.  (most places you just pay once for entry fee into the country)  Walked around a bit, checked out grocery stores, found ATM.  It rained all day.  Tried to pick up from our trip here, everything seemed wet and dirty after that ride.  Washed some clothes by hand, difficult to get dry, rained all day.  Had stuff hanging everywhere I could on boat inside.  What a mess.

November 4, 2012 - Sunday - sun out, fixed steering, took 4 hours, then the clean up.  Should be good now!  Hand washed some more clothes, hung them out to dry in the sun!  Went to outer bank where there is a small island with a bar, no electricity, so they send everyone home at dark.  Beer was cold, view spectacular.  We met up with 2nd Star and their friend Bob who arrived from Reno earlier in the day.

November 5, 2012 - Monday - Don fixed sail.  Still need sail maker, not sure how long repair will last.  Walked about, had dinner at Nikko’s, wonderful seafood. Don had some black crab bisque, delicious, met up with second star had a beer and then home

November 6, 2012 - Tuesday - shopped, did some internet, looked at weather, and decided to leave for Bocas on Thursday.  Talked to my dad uncle.  Found some water filters.  Don broke crown while eating popcorn.  Will have it looked at in Panama.

November 7, 2012 - Wednesday - checked out of San Andrés with agent Rene.   Rented a golf cart with Second Star and Bob and like Providencia, we proceeded to travel every road we could find.  Stopped for lunch at the most southern point, Point Sur Restaurant, got caught in a rain storm - soaking wet - stopped for beer - back to boat to prep for departure.

If you want casual strolls, quiet beaches, visits to the parks where people come to mingle once the sun has gone down, don't miss Providencia.  If you want constant entertainment, shopping, sand and surf, go to San Andres.  Both islands have fantastic food, wonderful people, and stunning views of the Caribbean.  So glad we did not miss them this time around.   

Next update, Bocas del Toro!

Roatan, Honduras September 18, 2012 to October 16, 2012

I love this island.  It has everything, fantastic palm lined beaches, beautiful lush green hills, great diving and snorkeling in crystal clear water, great food, internet, marinas, shopping, friendly people, easy going government officials, low to zero crime rate.  What more could a boater ask for.  We arrived at West End Bay around 5:30 pm after 56 hours passage from Isla Mujeres.  We had originally intended to go from Mexico straight to Panama to get out of the hurricane belt.  Things change, that’s the way of sailing.  We justified it with the memories of our previous visit to Roatan and the fact we did not feel like another long 5 day passage to get to Panama.

We were greeted by a fellow boater named Paul.  He had been to take his dog to shore when he spotted us coming in and could not resist coming to find out what kind of boat Limbo is.   She is a presence when entering an anchorage.  Anyway, his name is Paul girlfriend named Twyla.  She was in Canada visiting for 2 months.  They do video photography. I had to ask what kind after the last Canadians we had met in Mexico.  They too were photographers, skin shots, Paul and Twyla film sea life.   After we anchored he came back for a very long visit.  We ate and went to bed with the generator going all night.  At this point I still love air conditioning!

The next day up bright and early to take a cab to Coxen Hole and do our check-in with the Port Captain and Immigration.  What a difference from Mexico.  This was less than an hour for both port captain and immigration and only 20 US dollars.  We went to bank used ATM machine which was a little different.  There were armed guards at the door of the bank, a stand of lockers next to them.  They do not allow you to take any type of bag inside.  They give you a key to place all your belongings in the locker before entering the bank.  They then scan your person with a metal detector before opening the door.   (Maybe this is why they have a low crime rate?)  Afterward, we walked around absorbing our surroundings, the smells and sights.   This is the beginning of our cruising.  We had spent a month or so here some 15 years ago and it almost felt like home.

We were a bit lazy, taking two full days to put the sail cover back on the main sail.   (Having sloppy sails, lines all over the deck, bumpers hanging out on the side all give a bad impression of sailors, like an unkempt yard).  We put up awning, did some snorkeling off the boat and discovered a bit of anchor drag, a lot of sea grass here makes anchoring more challenging so we moved to a mooring in same bay.  We went back to snorkeling, what a fantastic time, so nice to get back in the water.   Took our dinghy to the town of West Bay walked around, had beer at Infinity Resort,  & learned how the other folks live, wow what a resort (pictures posted).  Then lunch at Bannarama Pizzeria.  Went back to the local internet café, Skype family and caught up on emails.  What a huge day.  We usually do not do so much in a day.  A boat project one day or general maintenance, snorkeling one day, then town the next.  When you grocery shop and do laundry in the same day, that’s a big day.  There needs to always be time for a nap and sundowners (cocktail hour).   Even if you don’t drink, boaters take the time to sit in the evening sipping a beverage relishing the sights and blessings of where they are.

We spent a month here getting our cruiser physic fine tuned.  Recently retired, we needed to learn to let go of always having to be doing something and the need of having the internet at our finger tips.  I did not realize how dependent I had become on that little “www”.   I had to also relearn my cooking preferences, Captain Don and our kids would use the word “learn”. (Most boaters make everything from scratch, when you want a lemon pie you squeeze the lemons and make the crust!)  Packaged foods are not available and when they are they are expensive.  

You also have to be diligent in boat maintenance developing a routine for checking all your boat systems.  We are a self contained floating condo.  We generate our own electricity and make our own water and ice!  Our navigation system is capable of traveling around the globe with a communications center to match.  (We use radios on board and a smart phone which provides GPS / map services while on land.  Who needs Atlas or the yellow pages?)  Internet cafes are readily available everywhere but can be costly, as much as $6 an hour.  The unlocked smart phone is the way to go for most places.  You can buy a local SIM card for as little as $3 and minutes for as little as $2.  The internet is $15 for 3GB a month.  No contract, no hassles.  If you want a USB stick for your computer, it is $45 for the stick and then $15 a month for 3GB of 4G service.  Most of the smart phones can also be used as a wifi hot spot if you did not want the additional expense of the stick.  Go to any local retailer that has a sign posted, drug stores, grocery stores, gift shops.  No waiting, all automated, fast and friendly.  You can also make calls using Skype, but then again you have to have some consistency in the connection, which is not always prime.  So far our calls to the states have been anywhere from 2 cents a minute to 11 cents a minute.  The other internet option a lot of boaters use is a repeater antenna that picks up open /unlocked connections from distances as great as 5 miles. 

While here we rented a car for two days traveling the exterior and interior of Roatan. Every turn was another panoramic photo op.  The island like everything has changed from our last visit.  They now have 3 to 4 cruise ships a week coming here each landing 500 to 2000 people on shore.  This is the primary economy for Roatan, all restaurants, resorts, retail; everything is geared towards the 1 day visit of 2000 people.  A friend of ours owns a daiquiri bar at one of the preferred stops so we paid him a visit.  It was New Orleans all over, throngs of people dancing, drinking, taking pictures.  What happens in Roatan should stay in Roatan for most of those pictures.  It was exciting and the daiquiris where delicious.

Unfortunately, Captain Don contracted dengue fever which lasted several days.  The virus has a 4 to 7 day incubation period so we know he was bitten by an infected mosquito in Isla Mujeres.  We moved from West End Bay to French Harbor into Fantasy Island Resort Marina so we could have air conditioning without running the generator 24/7.  Lugging jerry cans of diesel from a fuel station into a cab into the dinghy and out to the boat was half a days chore.  On the other hand I was forced to learn how to drive the dinghy which was a good thing.  Once there, the marina called a local doctor who came out with his nurse on a Sunday to the boat to examine him.  He gave him a muscle relaxer to help with his back ache which can be caused by dengue.  He told him to drink lots of fluids, take Tylenol, and rest.  It’s basically a bad case of flu with a super headache.  That visit was less than $100.  Can you even imagine the states if service was like that!  His name was Dr Brito but everyone called him the singing doctor.  He loves karaoke and sings a lot of Frank Sinatra songs.  Before we left we joined he and his wife for a night of singing at one of the local establishments.  Great time, he will forever be in our memories for his service and dedicating the song “I Did It My Way” to us.  He is pretty good and has a CD coming out next year.

A few more days of rest for Captain Don and a few days of full resort amenities for me, yeah!  I kayaked, snorkeled, and basically frolicked in the sun watching the resorts’ monkeys torment the locals with antics.  They like to run through the lobby and take things off of tables, sunglasses, phones, cameras, goggles, anything they could snatch and carry.  It was fun to watch the employees try to chase them down and return the items. 

 A month of lazy days, Captain Don on the mend, and a full moon approaching it would be time to  sail for our next port of call, Providencia, Columbia.  An island off the coast of Nicaragua but owned and governed by Columbia.  This would be the first port we had not been to in our last cruising adventures.  Exciting Columbia, movies portray this country as dangerous as though the drug cartels hang out in the streets.  Some portray it as very seductive and romantic.  I’ll let you know.

First Port of Call - Isla Mujeres, Mexico 9/12 - 9/15/2012

We arrived in Isla Mujeres Mexico around noon after a 4 day, 4 night trip.  On approach, you see the tiny island come into view, white sandy beaches, with building after building claiming more.  The crystal clear water is swimming pool blue. 

 We docked at Marina Isla Mujeres located at the Villa Vera Resort.  Immigration, Sanitation, Agriculture came to boat.  They semi -finished about 4 pm, we would still have to go to customs and the port captain in town and show stamped and paid. The marina manager made the numerous copies we needed to satisfy the paper fetish Mexico has.  The sanitation guy did not have an ink pad for his stamp so we gave him a marker to color over & then he stamped our papers….. They love stamps. 

 Marina has wonderful showers just at end of dock, we needed one badly.  We had been frugally saving water because you can not take on water in Mexico.  We had not tested our water maker yet, so needless to say only one shower in 4 1/2 days, we were in desperate need.  Cleaned and semi -checked in we went to the pool side bar, had beer, margaritas, nachos and guacamole.  We were in bed by 6 pm in air conditioning on a calm boat.  Wow what a sleep. 

13 hours of sleep can change your view of anything, then coffee and breakfast.  What a great day.  Don had to go into town and get receipts from immigration to show customs that we'd paid our taxes then to port captain.  Immigration was not there and neither was customs.  He will try again tomorrow.  Captain Don changed engine oil, and I washed down the deck.  I fell off the back swim platform; hit my hip gaining another bruise.  I had fallen in the bilge a few days before putting a huge bruise on back of my thigh.   I’m sure I’ll get the hang of this sooner or later!  I sent laundry to be done, I love it when you drop it off and pick it up later wash dried and folded… luxury, pure luxury.  We went downtown to dinner had fajitas, pina coladas, lobster quesadillas, walked around the town and took a cab back.  Nice little island but this is not the Isla Mujeres I remember from 15 years ago.  This place has been encroached upon by tourism at its finest.  With Cancun a huge tourist spot just a few miles away, the spillage is creating spoilage!

Next day we walked the other direction from marina, away from downtown and came across a large grocery, Chedraui, nice store.  Large grocery stores are a rarity the way we know of them in the USA.  Most are small storefronts, on some islands they’re the front space of someone’s home.  Also living on a boat, priorities change drastically with food gathering and the best local beer being tied for number one.  The next would be laundry service tied with boat parts.  We walked on and found a bar called Oscars Bar & Grill, met couple of gringos, one from Canada here on a Carver motor vessel.  He’s an ex- baseball player with hurt knees turned nude photographer, he gave us his card.   I filed it away, you never know maybe nudies of old people will be popular one day! (ha)  We walked back towards marina and ate dinner at local establishment.  Great food, I had grouper with Mayan sauce and Captain Don had grouper Veracruz style.   

We spent most of our last day here trying to clear out.   It’s as hard to clear out as it was to clear in.  Fixed some food for our next passage and readied the boat.  We left for fuel dock about 8:30 left Isla Mujeres approximately 9:22 a.m., heading for Roatan, Honduras.  When we traveled before, this was one of my favorite islands and I was excited to be going back.