The Islands of Providencia and San Andrés Columbia

October 19, 2012 – How to describe these little jewels of the Caribbean?  The waters surrounding Isla Providencia is a national park that abounds with lobsters that all but wink while you’re snorkeling.  (They must know you can’t touch them!) The grouper and red snapper all but laugh out loud.  Everywhere I turned I started thinking of lunch instead of how beautiful.  Both islands are remote but not forgotten.  They are well provided for with boats arriving a couple times a week from Columbia with supplies.  The Columbian Navy also has a strong presence in the waters that surround these islands. 

We made it to Providencia around 3:30 pm approximately 56 hours! We made haste in lowering the dinghy and clearing in to Colombia.  It was Captain Don’s birthday so we were in quite the hurry to celebrate.  We saw another boat in the anchorage named Second Star-that had their “Q” (quarantine) flag flying. (Whenever you enter a new port of call, you fly a yellow, “Q” flag to show you’ve not cleared into the country.  Once immigration, customs, and port captain have seen you, signed your papers, stamped your passport, you remove the “Q” flag and put that country’s flag up as a courtesy)

We put the dinghy down and Don immediately zoomed over to ask if they had called the Port Captain.   Johne and Aeon were their names.  He built his boat from a burnt Hatteras hull using aluminum to rebuild.  He had called Mr. Bush the agent for clearing in, Don and they went together.  Clearing in is as simple as paying Mr. Bush $140.00 and he handles all the paperwork.  We went to town found bank for the Columbian peso.  Then started looking for a restaurant called Caribbean Place, it supposedly serves the best black crab (indigenous to the island).  Ran into Mr. bush and he hired a taxi to take us there where he left us and instructed the cab driver to return at 8:30 to get us.  What a place. Rustic, cute, old, quaint, simple plastic tables and chairs, outdoor dinning, one chef French culinary trained, and one waitress.  He had ample write ups in various newspapers all in Spanish, awards, photos, and there he was, in an old island style home on an island not very many people now about creating 5 star food, on 5 star dishes served on a plastic table that had been covered in tropical colored fabric held down by an elastic band.  A dog came in and stretched out beside us cooling her belly on the floor.  A mosquito coil was burning on the floor under the table, a lit candle the centerpiece, and a fan blew gently providing a breeze.  We had mango juice with a side of rum (interesting).  The food is beyond indescribably delicious. He enjoyed his crab so much. And it is black crab meat.

We did so much on these islands.  We had passed them up the first time around 15 years ago because we were told they were too dangerous for cruisers.  This time, throwing caution to the wind we sailed on in and what a fantastic time we had.  The two islands are completely different.  Providencia rather casual, and unhurried in any fashion, has a population of around 5000 people and no crime.  Yes, reportedly from Mr. Bush, no crime.  San Andrés is a bustling tourist destination with about 80,000 residents.  The prime mode of transportation is scooters and golf carts for both islands.

I will just use the daily journal to recap our time on these islands since I’m so far behind in my writing.  This will also give you an idea of daily life on a boat.

October 20, 2012 - Saturday - Picked up passports, got the lay of the island, found a small ice maker like we'd been looking at in the states.  Will go Monday or Tuesday and purchase.  He was unable to take US dollars, said the bank did not give him as good of rate as they do us and possibly not even exchange it for him.  Checked internet, sent emails to kids, no calls from here. Got gas for dinghy, found fish market (since we don't seem to catch our own) happy hour on Second Star.  A busy day,

October 21, 2012 - Sunday - went snorkeling, beach combing, cleaned boat, organizing some more.  I’m still learning to live on a boat with the limited space.

October 22, 2012 - Monday - back to town, found where to dump trash, bought  a new juicer, had lunch in a fabulous street side café, whole fried red snapper, rice, plantains, soup, cucumber & tomato salad. A juice we're not sure of, could have been a blend of something with tamarind.  It was very good.  Used internet.  Don took nap I did some writing.

October 23, 2012 - Tuesday - did some boat chores, rainy day, had Columbian coast guard visit boat, they wanted to know name of Captain and to see boat documentation, then Johne and Aeon from

Second Star came over had visit with them.  Went to town for internet, we’re watching hurricane Sandy.  Met up with Second Star, got on bus went to dinner at Manchineel Bay at a reggae bar.  Delicious black crab again.  Don tipped the bus driver extra to come back for us, 2 km off road.  Really ideal place.  Swings,   hammocks on the water, benches and tables made from branches, smoke pit in middle, local Rasta's smoking weed.  Quite an experience.  PiÑa coladas made in the coconut shells, top hacked off fresh with a machete just for the occasion. It was a rough night for sleeping, rain off and on, rock and rolling, hurricane Sandy building.

October 24, 2012 - Wednesday - made water all day had let tank run dry.  Don feeling sick with headache.   Hand washed some clothes. Laundry facilities are non-existing here.  Suppose to be someone on Catalina Island but we have been unable to locate her.  These islands depend entirely upon rain water which they collect during the rainy season, May through October.  Cleaned floors.  It was another rock and roll rainy night, hurricane Sandy coming in.   

October 25, 2012 - Thursday - Town day, needed off boat, quite rocky and rolling.  Rainy can't open hatches and it gets steamy hot.  Trying not to run generator and use fuel every day. Went to lunch at Lucy's, had stewed fish, delicious.   She is going to make "rondon" for us tomorrow, we'll ask Second Star to join us.  Rondon is a local delicacy made on holidays.  Since Don’s brother’s name is Ron, and his is Don, Lucy said she’d make us some “rondon”.  Saw girl from "Just Tell Me" store, place that has our ice maker said she'd get the guy to bring over our ice maker so I waited a little over an hour he was no show.  Went for a walk about found produce store, went to grocery, ATM machine, and bakery back to boat for old fashion Dominican Republic street sandwich of fried egg, avocado, cabbage on French bread with mayo & hot sauce. Yummy.

October 26, 2012 - Friday - met up with Second Star for lunch at Lucy's again had "rondon" a local dish with fish, pig feet, plantain, cornmeal dumpling, potato, yucca all steamed in coconut milk like a pot roast.  Delicious, served with side of rice.  Went to fish market bought red snapper, picked up ice machine.  We reserved a Little Mule 4 wheeler for tomorrow with Second Star to tour the island.  Anchorage is still rocking a lot from hurricane Sandy.

October 27, 2012 - Saturday - 8:00 a.m. picked up Little Mule 4wd we're ready for a big day.  We went round the entire island, all the side streets, and every little dirt indentation that looked passable.  We found the water reservoir with dam.  Tried to get to mountain peak where you can see Caribbean but needed a guide, 50,000 pesos, too much we thought.  Then tried to get up to cell towers, could not, guarded by the military.  Had lunch at Caribbean place again I had black crab sandwich, delicious.  Got 60 gallons fuel took to boat, had nap and around 4pm up to tour again.  Second Star did not want to go so we went alone, around island again.   Went to restaurant called "Deep Blue" wow, what a place on the water, it's a hotel and restaurant that just opened in August, owned by an Columbian woman married to an Englishman.  We watched the sunset, saw a local fisherman cleaning huge snapper on the rocks, and a rather large lobster.  Another couple from Columbia had hired him to take them snorkeling at the light house about 10 miles out.  While they snorkeled, he fished.  They took half the snapper and the lobster for the restaurant to cook for them.  Presentation of food was 5 stars.  We had piÑa coladas and a three cheese pizza; brie, feta, & blue drizzled with a red wine reduction sauce.  That was a pizza.  We spent the evening talking to the couple from Columbia about their country, ours, kids, and life.  It was a very special evening.

October 28, 2012 - Sunday - stay on boat day for me, tried to find black mat that blew off swim platform.  Visibility at zero will try again before we leave. Storm still has water stirred up. Don was helping Second Star with his air conditioning.  They will be leaving tomorrow for San Andrés to pick up Johne's brother.

October 29, 2012 - Monday -thought we'd snorkel new area today.  Started out in one direction decided water was too rough, turned around and headed other way. Rough as well.  We kept going.  What a ride, all the way around the island looking for reef calm enough to anchor dinghy and snorkel.  We did not find much until we got to McBean Lagoon which is the national park at the Brother Cays.  One of the hills is nesting ground for the frigate bird.  We floated atop the water just watching as the male would circle and land blowing his red throat into what looked like a balloon.  The female calmly perched pretending not to notice.  It was a spectacular sight.  We were done and back in the dinghy continuing our way around the island when a park ranger came and said we could not snorkel there, that we had to go pay the park fee and only snorkel where he showed us.  He was very pleasant and said just next time because we were snorkeling we did not carry a wallet or any money with us.  Also saw restaurant "Deep Blue" where we had the best pizza ever.  Decided it was not that far by dinghy and we could go back.  It's in Maracaibo bay.  After treacherous dinghy ride, came back to boat, showered, had lunch and a nap.  Then went to different internet café the one Second Star told us about.  Don did not like the place, it's quite a walk, much more expensive, and he got an overall distaste for the owner/place.  So we'll go to the other one to do our internet.

October 30, 2012 - Tuesday - went back to older internet café in the heart of downtown, did some more laundry by hand, little writing, little Spanish.

October 31, 2012 - Wednesday - internet, cleaned boat, walked to fort on Santa Catalina Island, explored island some, lots of stairs up to cannon and down to beach, tough walk.  This is where “Morgan’s Head” is.  A giant rock when looked at a certain way could possibly look like a man’s head.  Supposedly, the infamous pirate Henry Morgan used the island as a hideout for his treasure.  No one has ever found it. 

November 1, 2012 - Thursday - clear out with Mr. Bush, light grocery/bakery, internet, snorkeled around Santa Catalina get ready to leave.

November 2, 2012 - Friday - 6 a.m. pulling anchor, leaving for San Andrés 53 miles away.  Around 9:45 a.m. storm hit, strong 40 knot winds, tried taking in main sail, halyard got stuck, Don was on deck pulling and pulling in pouring down rain auto pilot holding. Don got sail down but rigging is damaged, sail is damaged.  He tried to pull us around into the wind, steering broke, steel master chain link pulled apart like the steel was stretched as far as it would go before breaking, (not a clean break like there was stress in it before)  this was getting scary!  I even put my life jacket on.  The auto pilot held and we managed to get to San Andrés unharmed.  Just tossed around a bit and wet.  We hailed 2nd Star to come meet us at the sea buoy just in case we were not able to drive auto pilot like a "joy stick"  they could give us a tow into the anchorage.  Fortunately, we did not need that as Don maneuvered us safely behind the reef in calm water, anchor down rum punch out within minutes telling our nerve shaking experience to Johne and Aeon. Then we went to dinner!  They showed us around town a bit and then back to the boat, shower and bed.  What a day. 

November 3, 2012 - Saturday - met with Agent Rene to clear in for another $80.  (most places you just pay once for entry fee into the country)  Walked around a bit, checked out grocery stores, found ATM.  It rained all day.  Tried to pick up from our trip here, everything seemed wet and dirty after that ride.  Washed some clothes by hand, difficult to get dry, rained all day.  Had stuff hanging everywhere I could on boat inside.  What a mess.

November 4, 2012 - Sunday - sun out, fixed steering, took 4 hours, then the clean up.  Should be good now!  Hand washed some more clothes, hung them out to dry in the sun!  Went to outer bank where there is a small island with a bar, no electricity, so they send everyone home at dark.  Beer was cold, view spectacular.  We met up with 2nd Star and their friend Bob who arrived from Reno earlier in the day.

November 5, 2012 - Monday - Don fixed sail.  Still need sail maker, not sure how long repair will last.  Walked about, had dinner at Nikko’s, wonderful seafood. Don had some black crab bisque, delicious, met up with second star had a beer and then home

November 6, 2012 - Tuesday - shopped, did some internet, looked at weather, and decided to leave for Bocas on Thursday.  Talked to my dad uncle.  Found some water filters.  Don broke crown while eating popcorn.  Will have it looked at in Panama.

November 7, 2012 - Wednesday - checked out of San Andrés with agent Rene.   Rented a golf cart with Second Star and Bob and like Providencia, we proceeded to travel every road we could find.  Stopped for lunch at the most southern point, Point Sur Restaurant, got caught in a rain storm - soaking wet - stopped for beer - back to boat to prep for departure.

If you want casual strolls, quiet beaches, visits to the parks where people come to mingle once the sun has gone down, don't miss Providencia.  If you want constant entertainment, shopping, sand and surf, go to San Andres.  Both islands have fantastic food, wonderful people, and stunning views of the Caribbean.  So glad we did not miss them this time around.   

Next update, Bocas del Toro!

Roatan, Honduras September 18, 2012 to October 16, 2012

I love this island.  It has everything, fantastic palm lined beaches, beautiful lush green hills, great diving and snorkeling in crystal clear water, great food, internet, marinas, shopping, friendly people, easy going government officials, low to zero crime rate.  What more could a boater ask for.  We arrived at West End Bay around 5:30 pm after 56 hours passage from Isla Mujeres.  We had originally intended to go from Mexico straight to Panama to get out of the hurricane belt.  Things change, that’s the way of sailing.  We justified it with the memories of our previous visit to Roatan and the fact we did not feel like another long 5 day passage to get to Panama.

We were greeted by a fellow boater named Paul.  He had been to take his dog to shore when he spotted us coming in and could not resist coming to find out what kind of boat Limbo is.   She is a presence when entering an anchorage.  Anyway, his name is Paul girlfriend named Twyla.  She was in Canada visiting for 2 months.  They do video photography. I had to ask what kind after the last Canadians we had met in Mexico.  They too were photographers, skin shots, Paul and Twyla film sea life.   After we anchored he came back for a very long visit.  We ate and went to bed with the generator going all night.  At this point I still love air conditioning!

The next day up bright and early to take a cab to Coxen Hole and do our check-in with the Port Captain and Immigration.  What a difference from Mexico.  This was less than an hour for both port captain and immigration and only 20 US dollars.  We went to bank used ATM machine which was a little different.  There were armed guards at the door of the bank, a stand of lockers next to them.  They do not allow you to take any type of bag inside.  They give you a key to place all your belongings in the locker before entering the bank.  They then scan your person with a metal detector before opening the door.   (Maybe this is why they have a low crime rate?)  Afterward, we walked around absorbing our surroundings, the smells and sights.   This is the beginning of our cruising.  We had spent a month or so here some 15 years ago and it almost felt like home.

We were a bit lazy, taking two full days to put the sail cover back on the main sail.   (Having sloppy sails, lines all over the deck, bumpers hanging out on the side all give a bad impression of sailors, like an unkempt yard).  We put up awning, did some snorkeling off the boat and discovered a bit of anchor drag, a lot of sea grass here makes anchoring more challenging so we moved to a mooring in same bay.  We went back to snorkeling, what a fantastic time, so nice to get back in the water.   Took our dinghy to the town of West Bay walked around, had beer at Infinity Resort,  & learned how the other folks live, wow what a resort (pictures posted).  Then lunch at Bannarama Pizzeria.  Went back to the local internet café, Skype family and caught up on emails.  What a huge day.  We usually do not do so much in a day.  A boat project one day or general maintenance, snorkeling one day, then town the next.  When you grocery shop and do laundry in the same day, that’s a big day.  There needs to always be time for a nap and sundowners (cocktail hour).   Even if you don’t drink, boaters take the time to sit in the evening sipping a beverage relishing the sights and blessings of where they are.

We spent a month here getting our cruiser physic fine tuned.  Recently retired, we needed to learn to let go of always having to be doing something and the need of having the internet at our finger tips.  I did not realize how dependent I had become on that little “www”.   I had to also relearn my cooking preferences, Captain Don and our kids would use the word “learn”. (Most boaters make everything from scratch, when you want a lemon pie you squeeze the lemons and make the crust!)  Packaged foods are not available and when they are they are expensive.  

You also have to be diligent in boat maintenance developing a routine for checking all your boat systems.  We are a self contained floating condo.  We generate our own electricity and make our own water and ice!  Our navigation system is capable of traveling around the globe with a communications center to match.  (We use radios on board and a smart phone which provides GPS / map services while on land.  Who needs Atlas or the yellow pages?)  Internet cafes are readily available everywhere but can be costly, as much as $6 an hour.  The unlocked smart phone is the way to go for most places.  You can buy a local SIM card for as little as $3 and minutes for as little as $2.  The internet is $15 for 3GB a month.  No contract, no hassles.  If you want a USB stick for your computer, it is $45 for the stick and then $15 a month for 3GB of 4G service.  Most of the smart phones can also be used as a wifi hot spot if you did not want the additional expense of the stick.  Go to any local retailer that has a sign posted, drug stores, grocery stores, gift shops.  No waiting, all automated, fast and friendly.  You can also make calls using Skype, but then again you have to have some consistency in the connection, which is not always prime.  So far our calls to the states have been anywhere from 2 cents a minute to 11 cents a minute.  The other internet option a lot of boaters use is a repeater antenna that picks up open /unlocked connections from distances as great as 5 miles. 

While here we rented a car for two days traveling the exterior and interior of Roatan. Every turn was another panoramic photo op.  The island like everything has changed from our last visit.  They now have 3 to 4 cruise ships a week coming here each landing 500 to 2000 people on shore.  This is the primary economy for Roatan, all restaurants, resorts, retail; everything is geared towards the 1 day visit of 2000 people.  A friend of ours owns a daiquiri bar at one of the preferred stops so we paid him a visit.  It was New Orleans all over, throngs of people dancing, drinking, taking pictures.  What happens in Roatan should stay in Roatan for most of those pictures.  It was exciting and the daiquiris where delicious.

Unfortunately, Captain Don contracted dengue fever which lasted several days.  The virus has a 4 to 7 day incubation period so we know he was bitten by an infected mosquito in Isla Mujeres.  We moved from West End Bay to French Harbor into Fantasy Island Resort Marina so we could have air conditioning without running the generator 24/7.  Lugging jerry cans of diesel from a fuel station into a cab into the dinghy and out to the boat was half a days chore.  On the other hand I was forced to learn how to drive the dinghy which was a good thing.  Once there, the marina called a local doctor who came out with his nurse on a Sunday to the boat to examine him.  He gave him a muscle relaxer to help with his back ache which can be caused by dengue.  He told him to drink lots of fluids, take Tylenol, and rest.  It’s basically a bad case of flu with a super headache.  That visit was less than $100.  Can you even imagine the states if service was like that!  His name was Dr Brito but everyone called him the singing doctor.  He loves karaoke and sings a lot of Frank Sinatra songs.  Before we left we joined he and his wife for a night of singing at one of the local establishments.  Great time, he will forever be in our memories for his service and dedicating the song “I Did It My Way” to us.  He is pretty good and has a CD coming out next year.

A few more days of rest for Captain Don and a few days of full resort amenities for me, yeah!  I kayaked, snorkeled, and basically frolicked in the sun watching the resorts’ monkeys torment the locals with antics.  They like to run through the lobby and take things off of tables, sunglasses, phones, cameras, goggles, anything they could snatch and carry.  It was fun to watch the employees try to chase them down and return the items. 

 A month of lazy days, Captain Don on the mend, and a full moon approaching it would be time to  sail for our next port of call, Providencia, Columbia.  An island off the coast of Nicaragua but owned and governed by Columbia.  This would be the first port we had not been to in our last cruising adventures.  Exciting Columbia, movies portray this country as dangerous as though the drug cartels hang out in the streets.  Some portray it as very seductive and romantic.  I’ll let you know.

First Port of Call - Isla Mujeres, Mexico 9/12 - 9/15/2012

We arrived in Isla Mujeres Mexico around noon after a 4 day, 4 night trip.  On approach, you see the tiny island come into view, white sandy beaches, with building after building claiming more.  The crystal clear water is swimming pool blue. 

 We docked at Marina Isla Mujeres located at the Villa Vera Resort.  Immigration, Sanitation, Agriculture came to boat.  They semi -finished about 4 pm, we would still have to go to customs and the port captain in town and show stamped and paid. The marina manager made the numerous copies we needed to satisfy the paper fetish Mexico has.  The sanitation guy did not have an ink pad for his stamp so we gave him a marker to color over & then he stamped our papers….. They love stamps. 

 Marina has wonderful showers just at end of dock, we needed one badly.  We had been frugally saving water because you can not take on water in Mexico.  We had not tested our water maker yet, so needless to say only one shower in 4 1/2 days, we were in desperate need.  Cleaned and semi -checked in we went to the pool side bar, had beer, margaritas, nachos and guacamole.  We were in bed by 6 pm in air conditioning on a calm boat.  Wow what a sleep. 

13 hours of sleep can change your view of anything, then coffee and breakfast.  What a great day.  Don had to go into town and get receipts from immigration to show customs that we'd paid our taxes then to port captain.  Immigration was not there and neither was customs.  He will try again tomorrow.  Captain Don changed engine oil, and I washed down the deck.  I fell off the back swim platform; hit my hip gaining another bruise.  I had fallen in the bilge a few days before putting a huge bruise on back of my thigh.   I’m sure I’ll get the hang of this sooner or later!  I sent laundry to be done, I love it when you drop it off and pick it up later wash dried and folded… luxury, pure luxury.  We went downtown to dinner had fajitas, pina coladas, lobster quesadillas, walked around the town and took a cab back.  Nice little island but this is not the Isla Mujeres I remember from 15 years ago.  This place has been encroached upon by tourism at its finest.  With Cancun a huge tourist spot just a few miles away, the spillage is creating spoilage!

Next day we walked the other direction from marina, away from downtown and came across a large grocery, Chedraui, nice store.  Large grocery stores are a rarity the way we know of them in the USA.  Most are small storefronts, on some islands they’re the front space of someone’s home.  Also living on a boat, priorities change drastically with food gathering and the best local beer being tied for number one.  The next would be laundry service tied with boat parts.  We walked on and found a bar called Oscars Bar & Grill, met couple of gringos, one from Canada here on a Carver motor vessel.  He’s an ex- baseball player with hurt knees turned nude photographer, he gave us his card.   I filed it away, you never know maybe nudies of old people will be popular one day! (ha)  We walked back towards marina and ate dinner at local establishment.  Great food, I had grouper with Mayan sauce and Captain Don had grouper Veracruz style.   

We spent most of our last day here trying to clear out.   It’s as hard to clear out as it was to clear in.  Fixed some food for our next passage and readied the boat.  We left for fuel dock about 8:30 left Isla Mujeres approximately 9:22 a.m., heading for Roatan, Honduras.  When we traveled before, this was one of my favorite islands and I was excited to be going back.