The Islands of Providencia and San Andrés Columbia

October 19, 2012 – How to describe these little jewels of the Caribbean?  The waters surrounding Isla Providencia is a national park that abounds with lobsters that all but wink while you’re snorkeling.  (They must know you can’t touch them!) The grouper and red snapper all but laugh out loud.  Everywhere I turned I started thinking of lunch instead of how beautiful.  Both islands are remote but not forgotten.  They are well provided for with boats arriving a couple times a week from Columbia with supplies.  The Columbian Navy also has a strong presence in the waters that surround these islands. 

We made it to Providencia around 3:30 pm approximately 56 hours! We made haste in lowering the dinghy and clearing in to Colombia.  It was Captain Don’s birthday so we were in quite the hurry to celebrate.  We saw another boat in the anchorage named Second Star-that had their “Q” (quarantine) flag flying. (Whenever you enter a new port of call, you fly a yellow, “Q” flag to show you’ve not cleared into the country.  Once immigration, customs, and port captain have seen you, signed your papers, stamped your passport, you remove the “Q” flag and put that country’s flag up as a courtesy)

We put the dinghy down and Don immediately zoomed over to ask if they had called the Port Captain.   Johne and Aeon were their names.  He built his boat from a burnt Hatteras hull using aluminum to rebuild.  He had called Mr. Bush the agent for clearing in, Don and they went together.  Clearing in is as simple as paying Mr. Bush $140.00 and he handles all the paperwork.  We went to town found bank for the Columbian peso.  Then started looking for a restaurant called Caribbean Place, it supposedly serves the best black crab (indigenous to the island).  Ran into Mr. bush and he hired a taxi to take us there where he left us and instructed the cab driver to return at 8:30 to get us.  What a place. Rustic, cute, old, quaint, simple plastic tables and chairs, outdoor dinning, one chef French culinary trained, and one waitress.  He had ample write ups in various newspapers all in Spanish, awards, photos, and there he was, in an old island style home on an island not very many people now about creating 5 star food, on 5 star dishes served on a plastic table that had been covered in tropical colored fabric held down by an elastic band.  A dog came in and stretched out beside us cooling her belly on the floor.  A mosquito coil was burning on the floor under the table, a lit candle the centerpiece, and a fan blew gently providing a breeze.  We had mango juice with a side of rum (interesting).  The food is beyond indescribably delicious. He enjoyed his crab so much. And it is black crab meat.

We did so much on these islands.  We had passed them up the first time around 15 years ago because we were told they were too dangerous for cruisers.  This time, throwing caution to the wind we sailed on in and what a fantastic time we had.  The two islands are completely different.  Providencia rather casual, and unhurried in any fashion, has a population of around 5000 people and no crime.  Yes, reportedly from Mr. Bush, no crime.  San Andrés is a bustling tourist destination with about 80,000 residents.  The prime mode of transportation is scooters and golf carts for both islands.

I will just use the daily journal to recap our time on these islands since I’m so far behind in my writing.  This will also give you an idea of daily life on a boat.

October 20, 2012 - Saturday - Picked up passports, got the lay of the island, found a small ice maker like we'd been looking at in the states.  Will go Monday or Tuesday and purchase.  He was unable to take US dollars, said the bank did not give him as good of rate as they do us and possibly not even exchange it for him.  Checked internet, sent emails to kids, no calls from here. Got gas for dinghy, found fish market (since we don't seem to catch our own) happy hour on Second Star.  A busy day,

October 21, 2012 - Sunday - went snorkeling, beach combing, cleaned boat, organizing some more.  I’m still learning to live on a boat with the limited space.

October 22, 2012 - Monday - back to town, found where to dump trash, bought  a new juicer, had lunch in a fabulous street side café, whole fried red snapper, rice, plantains, soup, cucumber & tomato salad. A juice we're not sure of, could have been a blend of something with tamarind.  It was very good.  Used internet.  Don took nap I did some writing.

October 23, 2012 - Tuesday - did some boat chores, rainy day, had Columbian coast guard visit boat, they wanted to know name of Captain and to see boat documentation, then Johne and Aeon from

Second Star came over had visit with them.  Went to town for internet, we’re watching hurricane Sandy.  Met up with Second Star, got on bus went to dinner at Manchineel Bay at a reggae bar.  Delicious black crab again.  Don tipped the bus driver extra to come back for us, 2 km off road.  Really ideal place.  Swings,   hammocks on the water, benches and tables made from branches, smoke pit in middle, local Rasta's smoking weed.  Quite an experience.  PiÑa coladas made in the coconut shells, top hacked off fresh with a machete just for the occasion. It was a rough night for sleeping, rain off and on, rock and rolling, hurricane Sandy building.

October 24, 2012 - Wednesday - made water all day had let tank run dry.  Don feeling sick with headache.   Hand washed some clothes. Laundry facilities are non-existing here.  Suppose to be someone on Catalina Island but we have been unable to locate her.  These islands depend entirely upon rain water which they collect during the rainy season, May through October.  Cleaned floors.  It was another rock and roll rainy night, hurricane Sandy coming in.   

October 25, 2012 - Thursday - Town day, needed off boat, quite rocky and rolling.  Rainy can't open hatches and it gets steamy hot.  Trying not to run generator and use fuel every day. Went to lunch at Lucy's, had stewed fish, delicious.   She is going to make "rondon" for us tomorrow, we'll ask Second Star to join us.  Rondon is a local delicacy made on holidays.  Since Don’s brother’s name is Ron, and his is Don, Lucy said she’d make us some “rondon”.  Saw girl from "Just Tell Me" store, place that has our ice maker said she'd get the guy to bring over our ice maker so I waited a little over an hour he was no show.  Went for a walk about found produce store, went to grocery, ATM machine, and bakery back to boat for old fashion Dominican Republic street sandwich of fried egg, avocado, cabbage on French bread with mayo & hot sauce. Yummy.

October 26, 2012 - Friday - met up with Second Star for lunch at Lucy's again had "rondon" a local dish with fish, pig feet, plantain, cornmeal dumpling, potato, yucca all steamed in coconut milk like a pot roast.  Delicious, served with side of rice.  Went to fish market bought red snapper, picked up ice machine.  We reserved a Little Mule 4 wheeler for tomorrow with Second Star to tour the island.  Anchorage is still rocking a lot from hurricane Sandy.

October 27, 2012 - Saturday - 8:00 a.m. picked up Little Mule 4wd we're ready for a big day.  We went round the entire island, all the side streets, and every little dirt indentation that looked passable.  We found the water reservoir with dam.  Tried to get to mountain peak where you can see Caribbean but needed a guide, 50,000 pesos, too much we thought.  Then tried to get up to cell towers, could not, guarded by the military.  Had lunch at Caribbean place again I had black crab sandwich, delicious.  Got 60 gallons fuel took to boat, had nap and around 4pm up to tour again.  Second Star did not want to go so we went alone, around island again.   Went to restaurant called "Deep Blue" wow, what a place on the water, it's a hotel and restaurant that just opened in August, owned by an Columbian woman married to an Englishman.  We watched the sunset, saw a local fisherman cleaning huge snapper on the rocks, and a rather large lobster.  Another couple from Columbia had hired him to take them snorkeling at the light house about 10 miles out.  While they snorkeled, he fished.  They took half the snapper and the lobster for the restaurant to cook for them.  Presentation of food was 5 stars.  We had piÑa coladas and a three cheese pizza; brie, feta, & blue drizzled with a red wine reduction sauce.  That was a pizza.  We spent the evening talking to the couple from Columbia about their country, ours, kids, and life.  It was a very special evening.

October 28, 2012 - Sunday - stay on boat day for me, tried to find black mat that blew off swim platform.  Visibility at zero will try again before we leave. Storm still has water stirred up. Don was helping Second Star with his air conditioning.  They will be leaving tomorrow for San Andrés to pick up Johne's brother.

October 29, 2012 - Monday -thought we'd snorkel new area today.  Started out in one direction decided water was too rough, turned around and headed other way. Rough as well.  We kept going.  What a ride, all the way around the island looking for reef calm enough to anchor dinghy and snorkel.  We did not find much until we got to McBean Lagoon which is the national park at the Brother Cays.  One of the hills is nesting ground for the frigate bird.  We floated atop the water just watching as the male would circle and land blowing his red throat into what looked like a balloon.  The female calmly perched pretending not to notice.  It was a spectacular sight.  We were done and back in the dinghy continuing our way around the island when a park ranger came and said we could not snorkel there, that we had to go pay the park fee and only snorkel where he showed us.  He was very pleasant and said just next time because we were snorkeling we did not carry a wallet or any money with us.  Also saw restaurant "Deep Blue" where we had the best pizza ever.  Decided it was not that far by dinghy and we could go back.  It's in Maracaibo bay.  After treacherous dinghy ride, came back to boat, showered, had lunch and a nap.  Then went to different internet café the one Second Star told us about.  Don did not like the place, it's quite a walk, much more expensive, and he got an overall distaste for the owner/place.  So we'll go to the other one to do our internet.

October 30, 2012 - Tuesday - went back to older internet café in the heart of downtown, did some more laundry by hand, little writing, little Spanish.

October 31, 2012 - Wednesday - internet, cleaned boat, walked to fort on Santa Catalina Island, explored island some, lots of stairs up to cannon and down to beach, tough walk.  This is where “Morgan’s Head” is.  A giant rock when looked at a certain way could possibly look like a man’s head.  Supposedly, the infamous pirate Henry Morgan used the island as a hideout for his treasure.  No one has ever found it. 

November 1, 2012 - Thursday - clear out with Mr. Bush, light grocery/bakery, internet, snorkeled around Santa Catalina get ready to leave.

November 2, 2012 - Friday - 6 a.m. pulling anchor, leaving for San Andrés 53 miles away.  Around 9:45 a.m. storm hit, strong 40 knot winds, tried taking in main sail, halyard got stuck, Don was on deck pulling and pulling in pouring down rain auto pilot holding. Don got sail down but rigging is damaged, sail is damaged.  He tried to pull us around into the wind, steering broke, steel master chain link pulled apart like the steel was stretched as far as it would go before breaking, (not a clean break like there was stress in it before)  this was getting scary!  I even put my life jacket on.  The auto pilot held and we managed to get to San Andrés unharmed.  Just tossed around a bit and wet.  We hailed 2nd Star to come meet us at the sea buoy just in case we were not able to drive auto pilot like a "joy stick"  they could give us a tow into the anchorage.  Fortunately, we did not need that as Don maneuvered us safely behind the reef in calm water, anchor down rum punch out within minutes telling our nerve shaking experience to Johne and Aeon. Then we went to dinner!  They showed us around town a bit and then back to the boat, shower and bed.  What a day. 

November 3, 2012 - Saturday - met with Agent Rene to clear in for another $80.  (most places you just pay once for entry fee into the country)  Walked around a bit, checked out grocery stores, found ATM.  It rained all day.  Tried to pick up from our trip here, everything seemed wet and dirty after that ride.  Washed some clothes by hand, difficult to get dry, rained all day.  Had stuff hanging everywhere I could on boat inside.  What a mess.

November 4, 2012 - Sunday - sun out, fixed steering, took 4 hours, then the clean up.  Should be good now!  Hand washed some more clothes, hung them out to dry in the sun!  Went to outer bank where there is a small island with a bar, no electricity, so they send everyone home at dark.  Beer was cold, view spectacular.  We met up with 2nd Star and their friend Bob who arrived from Reno earlier in the day.

November 5, 2012 - Monday - Don fixed sail.  Still need sail maker, not sure how long repair will last.  Walked about, had dinner at Nikko’s, wonderful seafood. Don had some black crab bisque, delicious, met up with second star had a beer and then home

November 6, 2012 - Tuesday - shopped, did some internet, looked at weather, and decided to leave for Bocas on Thursday.  Talked to my dad uncle.  Found some water filters.  Don broke crown while eating popcorn.  Will have it looked at in Panama.

November 7, 2012 - Wednesday - checked out of San Andrés with agent Rene.   Rented a golf cart with Second Star and Bob and like Providencia, we proceeded to travel every road we could find.  Stopped for lunch at the most southern point, Point Sur Restaurant, got caught in a rain storm - soaking wet - stopped for beer - back to boat to prep for departure.

If you want casual strolls, quiet beaches, visits to the parks where people come to mingle once the sun has gone down, don't miss Providencia.  If you want constant entertainment, shopping, sand and surf, go to San Andres.  Both islands have fantastic food, wonderful people, and stunning views of the Caribbean.  So glad we did not miss them this time around.   

Next update, Bocas del Toro!