Chile: New Years and Club de Yates Higuerillas

Our new port, Club de Yates Higuerillas is a popular resort area for Chile, home to a 50 year old yacht club and a stretch of beach running from Concón to Viña del Mar. 

 water is less than 60 degrees F.

here they're in swimsuits,on the street we were wearing a light jacket!

The busiest season is from December to March, the yacht club with weddings and parties every weekend, beaches packed, people on the streets holding up signs, reading “cabanas”.  This could be anywhere USA.  Unlike Peru, many have cars here.  There are hundreds of high rises and malls that span three blocks.  Name brand stores, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Columbia, the list goes on. 

Club de Yates Higuerillas

We arrived two days after Fedor Konyukhov, a Russian, left to row across the Pacific from Chile to Australia in a specially built boat, for 9173 nautical miles in 6 months.  Crazy? I think so, but extreme adventure is not for everyone.  He has many credits to him, he’s circumnavigated the world 4 times, he’s climbed 7 summits , he’s solo rowed the Atlantic, North Geographic Pole by ski 3 times, South Geographical Pole by ski unsupported.  www.konyukhov.ru I was sorry to have not met him  

The marina is super for cruisers, even though a bit expensive.  The marina calls in your arrival to the armada and provides the zarpe on your departure.  There are two water taps on the dock, one for washing the boat and one for drinking water.  The bus service is frequent and cheap.  There is a Super Lider (Lee-der) equivalent to a USA Wal-Mart in Viña del Mar about a 10 minute bus ride and 20 minute bus ride to Valparaiso. 

We had not planned on staying long, only long enough to see the fireworks and kill a very annoying mouse that had been eluding us since Iquique.

Some men on a power boat in Iquique told us about Valparaiso and the quest to set a Guinness World Record with the largest fireworks display.  This we had to see.  The previous record was held by Kuwait in 2011.  It has been several years since we stayed up for mid-night.  The boat next to us had a gentleman that spoke English and in passing I had wished him ‘Happy New Year”.  He let me know that in Chile, “it is bad luck to wish someone feliz ano before midnight”.

The marina’s yard had been quite busy the week prior building the 3 barges that the fireworks would be discharged from. 

There were three of these barges for the bays in our immediate area. The main show was in Valparaiso with barges such as these placed in the bays all the way down to Concón, two bays down from us.

We had our champagne prior to leaving the boat and around 10:30 p.m. we walked out to the jetty and up into a lookout tower. We were soon joined by a group of 6 Chileans all carrying champagne which they insisted on sharing with us at the stroke of midnight.  Then the good wishes flow with hugs and kisses for the New Year.  What a fantastic fireworks display. 

the lookout on the break wall looking out into the bay

Jorge told us that it is next year they’re going for the record. Dubai got it for 2014. 

We did spend a bit of time here waiting for weather, exactly 21 days.  In that time we bought a mouse trap that did not work.  We had our little problem with us for so long we started calling him “Ratatouille”. We then bought glue strips for his feet to get stuck in.  This worked.  We had caught our hitch hiker, only he wasn’t a mouse he was a rat!  Should have been calling him “Willard”.  So gross and creepy.  They crawl along the dock lines and onto the boats.  We asked Jorge how many cats the marina had.  “No one knows” he said, but many.  He told us the board of directors had wanted to get rid of them and was having them hunted.  The owners requested that they leave the cats because the poison they’re using was like a breakfast cereal for them.  They were multiplying and getting stronger.  Sounded like our “Willard”.  Captain Don slung him far away into the deep blue.  (I hope the glue wasn’t water soluble and he was able to swim back to shore, yikes).   Now that he was gone, we tore the boat apart again.  Every drawer, cabinet, the floor boards, everything up and out.  Shake, wash, clean, sterilize.  So good to have water on the dock available. 

We took a day trip to Valparaiso looking for a must have book of charts, the Atlas Hidrografico de Chile.  You can purchase online @ www.shoa.cl/pagnueva/publicaciones.html‎ or go to 254 Playa Ancha - Valparaíso - Chile - Teléfono (32) 2266666 - Fax (32) 2266542.  They had one copy available.  Lucky us.  We spent the rest of the day tooling around, riding an ascensor up the hills (cerros), which is what Valparaiso is known for.  One of these ascensors, 15 in all, was built in 1883 and is still in operation.  There are many hill tops providing panoramic views of the city and the Pacific.  I tried to see one of the cemeteries which were according to Lonely Planet is where tombs are “ornate mini palaces”.  I caught enough of a glimpse from an ascensor to realize I was going to have to hike two hills on foot to get to it.  I really didn’t want to climb another hill since we were carrying our new Chilean Atlas weighing no less than 10 lbs.  It’s going to be a great coffee table book someday.

Ascensor

view from ascensor

wooden mechanics for the ascensor 

view of Valparaiso

cemetery

cemetery

While waiting for weather we also tried to arrange for a bottom paint job.  This was impossible with our boat.  A painter was arranged and pricing acceptable.  The haul out arranged.  We could not find paint. We have an aluminum boat and cannot use paint that has copper in it. The haul out service has 2 charges, the haul by the hour and then the pressure wash by the hour.  Prices are based on the size of your boat and the taxes.  We had arranged to have our boat hauled and washed just before we’re ready to leave which worked out great.

This bird had her nest at the end of the lift dock!

bird nest at the end of this track

Jorge had arranged for us to purchase some necessities for going south from one of the suppliers the marina uses, Carlos.  He came to the boat with his Port Supply Catalog and we placed our order.  The following week he came back with the items we had chosen.  Prices were comparable to what the catalog pricing was for the US. 

A weather window finally presented itself, so we arranged for our haul out and pressure wash.  Did some provisioning and Jorge obtained our zarpe to Valdivia 465 miles away.   

 Still heading south—next port Valdivia

Chile – Heading South: Iquique to Destination?

December 14^th we left Iquique with the intentions of spending the holidays in Valparaiso.   Passage started beautiful calm weather, not suitable for sailing, but plenty uneventful, just the way I like it.  The morning of the 16^th we pulled into an anchorage off Isla Santa Maria.  Another sand and rock mound with nesting seagulls.  Did some minor exploring to get off the boat and stretch our legs.  Back on board making water, Don noticed the shaft slipped, quickly repaired, then the bilge pump quit working, he replaced in time to notice the winds kicked up to 25 knots.  Oh well, he was tired from repair work anyway, we spent the night in a calm albeit blusterous anchorage. 

Following morning winds calmer pulled anchor loaded with seaweed, a new experience for me.  It is tubular, leafy, long, and clingy. I forgot say smelly. (The next time it happens I’ll take a picture for you.  In the local markets you can buy it to eat.)  Underway, on a passage, entertainment comes easily and this day was no exception.  On the horizon appeared a large white mass.  Not close enough to see clearly even with binoculars, we played the guessing game.  Is it an overturned boat?  Is it a fish farm? Is it a huge piece of Styrofoam?  Off course we go for investigation.  Now we see some gray and movement in the water.   What is it?  I’m guessing the hull of a boat.  Nope, none of the above, it was a floating upside down whale carcass with birds splashing and circling. 

This could have caused a bump in the night!

The next morning, December 18^th we anchored in Caleta Cifuncho to change the oil and add fuel from the jerry jugs. 

The armada did come aboard here to check our papers and ask if everything was ok.   The Chilean Navy requires a twice a day check in, 8 a.m. and 8 p.m.   We have been and continue to do this via email using our Iridium satellite phone.  We did not get off the boat but it was such an unusual settlement blending into the desert hillside, its craggy rocks jetting from the sea abruptly giving way to a   golden sandy beach.  A half moon shape providing a calm protected aquamarine cove.  I couldn’t help but think of this place in the future,when water can be piped in and electricity supplied, it is possible a resort will find its way to loom up and out of the sand. 

After a nine hour stop we pulled anchor, this time only sand, to be underway again.  Miles to go we pulled into the yacht club at Caldera for fuel around 9 a.m.  There, Humberto came and tied us to a mooring ball.  He then was kind enough to arrange for transportation to haul and fill our 10 jerry cans to a station for fuel.  We also shopped in Caldera for a mouse trap but only found poison. (We had picked up a hitch hiker at the dock in Iquique.) 

Again the Armada visited Limbo.  This is the first place we started to see some vegetation.  Humberto explained they were at the end of the Atacama Desert and received rain at least twice a year.  A very nice man and good place to do minor provisioning.  The gentleman who helped us obtain fuel was there working on a 90 foot steel sloop that had been used in a movie with Kevin Costner but he did not know the name of the movie.  He did invite us aboard to have a look, but with looming deadline for Christmas, by 5:15 p.m. we were on our way again. 

2 a.m. the morning of the 20^Th, a burning smell starts to permeate the air.  Holly *?!* Captain Don shouts as he throws open the floor board to the engine.  Fan belt pieces were flung here and there, burning rubber billowing black smoke and stench.  Well, this is a fine how to do at 2 a.m. isn't it?  Awe, but wait, not only is the belt shredded, but in its flight it put a slice in a hose.  But, Limbo’s “MacGyver”, Captain Don has a spare belt… he’s so good.  First up, repair the hose, clamp a piece here, clamp a piece there, patched and ready for the belt.  Awe, but wait, the spare is not the same size.  How did that happen?   What are our options now?  We wait till sunrise and try to sail into the nearest anchorage.  We raised the sail and the halyard stuck.  Oh, we are cussing plenty now.  Things have just not been going to plan.  (That nasty “planning” word is something sailors claim they don’t do!)  Work it, work it, halyard free, and sail up, NO WIND.  There we sat.  Some time to think and regroup, Captain “MacGyver” Don took his trusty box cutter blade and shaved the entire belt to a workable width for operation.  He first had to remove the alternator but once that was done we are good to go again.  It did create some engine vibration which we stopped for to tighten.  We traveled holding our breath three more hours to the nearest anchorage that showed promise in getting a new belt.  Approximately 2 p.m. we anchor at Carrazal Bajo.

There are curiosity seekers in every anchorage this one no exception.  In moments of anchoring, a kayak with two men appeared speaking broken English.  We were quick to explain our problem. They were quick to respond with their services.  They were driving a bus load of kids and would be leaving around 5 p.m. happy to give us a ride to the nearest town, Vallenar, two hours away.  We put the dinghy down and headed to town to wait for them.  Our broken belt in hand seemed to speak volumes to the local men.  They each had a place to get a new one or a friend or some idea.  Five o’clock came and went, no kayak bus driver.  We must not have understood that broken English too well….. We soon catch on that there is another bus at 6 p.m.  It would be the last bus until the following week.  They only come twice a week to this village.  Lucky Us we were just in time.  A local took pity on us, wrote down the name of a shop in Vallenar and said to show it to the bus driver.  I didn’t have to because he stayed around long enough to explain to the driver what and where we needed to go.   A bit nervous because of the hour, would these stores still be open?  Would we get stuck in Vallenar with no way back to Limbo?  Captain Don is fidgeting in his seat as the unfamiliar green farmland passes by.  

The driver dropped us right at the door to an auto parts store shouting “rapido” “rapido” and pointing to the corner.  Did this mean he was going to his other stop and come back to that corner to get us?   No, that is not what it meant.  How naive I can be! He was pointing to another parts store on the corner and we needed to hurry because they would be closing.  We bought two belts from each store.  Standing there looking rather lost and dumb for thinking the bus was returning for us, Captain Don hailed a taxi.  A crispy $100 US bill and two hours later we were back in Carrazal Bajo, in the dink and back on Limbo.  Sighs of relief, we can breathe again.  What a fantastic dramatic journey!  Will they make it?  A resounding YES!  We made it.

A wonderful night’s sleep.  The next day Limbo donning the new black hose and belt engine on sounding good except the bilge seems to be going on more than it should and the wash down pump seems to be running more than it should.  HMM.  Again, we are tearing things apart; floors, bed, and the anchor locker, tracing the line down under the bed and into the floor.  Another hose! Yikes, only this time it had some teeth marks deep enough to spring a leak!  (Our hitch hiker mouse was growing stronger with the poison instead of dying. Daily we cleaned and searched for the nest.) Another hose repaired and we are ready to go.  Went for a walkabout to the alcalde's office for her to stamp our zarpe.  We entered our name in her record book.  They have about 3 boats a year visit.  This port was the first port in Chile in 1863 for the copper mines.  The town had a population over 4 thousand people during the mining days.  When the mine dried up there were only 8 people left.  I do not know how many live there now but they only have bus service two times a week and electricity is sporadic.  They supplement with solar panels.

whats left of the original dock 1863

the library bus with a whale bone in front

San Pedro, their patron saint at the pulpit in the church

the village of Carrazal Bajo

December 22^nd we approach Isla Damas under a lifting fog.  A national reserve,” Reserva Nacional Pinquino de Humboldt” originally set up to allow only 60 people per day visit.  This was done so the local fishermen could still make a little money since the government took away a primary fishing spot to make this national park.  Needless to say, this bird sanctuary is tromped on by many more than 60 people a day. 

Trails worn deep winding the way up and down through towering granite boulders taking imaginary shapes of my own design, desert cacti, flowering ground cover, and a yellow flower that looked similar to the daffodils we have in Texas. 

what does this look like to you?

Throughout the park were nesting gulls that screeched and flew at you for getting too close.  So many that at the same time we shouted, “don’t look up”. 

We saw some penguins swimming while still on the boat but not on our hike.  It was a nice respite with no boat problems.  A stroll around and underway again.

By 6:30 p.m. we were anchoring in Coquimbo also known as Bahia Herradura (horseshoe) de Guayacan.  The Bay of Guayacan is used for exporting copper and iron ore.  It also appears to be a resort area with very little in the way of commercial retail.  The Yacht Club Herraduro is very friendly and hospitable offering launcha service to and from your boat, free Wi-Fi, showers and a restaurant that did not open while we were there.  Rolando and Anita personally took us to the Port Captain to clear in.  They then showed us around pointing to the things all cruisers look for, laundry and groceries.   There are two groceries here, the Lider and Santa Isabel.  You could walk to Isabel but it’s a couple of miles.  The Lider has better selection. 

This protected bay provided us some much needed calm.   Realizing we were not going to make it to Valparaiso for Christmas we tried to take advantage of the Wi-Fi to make Skype calls.  It was sketchy and kept cutting us off.  The yacht club is accommodating with friendly people but it’s not centrally located having to use taxis each time.  They were quite expensive at $6 to $10 US each way.  It was also necessary to check in & out with the Port Captain.  They came and inspected our safety gear requiring us to have our fire extinguishers refilled or replaced on Christmas Eve.  Rolando at the yacht club made one call and had new ones there mid-day.

Christmas day we set sail trying to busy ourselves with thoughts of a new port and the journey getting there instead of our family back home.  We did use the satellite phone to call everyone and listen to the grand kids screaming in the background.  Oh the joys of children and Christmas toys.   We miss it.

leaving Coquimbo

December 26^th 3:31 p.m. we arrived in Bahia Higuerillas, only a few miles bus ride from Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. 

Club de Yate Higuerilla just beyond the break wall

At last, it had been a 12 day, 885 mile journey.  We were met with a launcha from the yacht club and secured to the only mooring ball outside the break wall.  They did not have any slips available but asked that we wait and one should be available.  They took our zarpe and said they would be back.  (I’m still so trusting!)  They did not return.  Following day, after an extremely rolling night and morning, we launched the dink and headed into the office.   Words were, “no room at the inn”.  But maybe talk to the manager and possibly get a slip.    December is start of their summer season, many boats coming and going.  They would check schedules to see where they might put us.  The accountant, Jorge, speaks very good English and with his reassurance, we hung on through the tumbling anchorage another night.  The marina is a private yacht club that sells the slips.  The owners then lease them out or resell for what they choose.  The Yacht Club de Higuerillas is obligated by Chilean law to accommodate incoming vessels.  So, they have a standing policy to allow boats in at the rate of $50 US per day with the first 7 days free.  There is also a travel lift and small yard used primarily by the members.  The club is beautiful with two swimming pools, a private beach, restaurant, and poolside bar.  They offer Wi-Fi, which does not come out to the docks, great showers and the buses pick up and let off at the gate.   

always magnificent 

We managed a slip on the 28^th and then had to move to another on the 29^th.  We were in with calm water and looking forward to the New Year’s celebrations.  Valparaiso was getting ready to break the Guinness World record with the biggest fireworks display in the world.

To be continued: New Years  and Boat Yard at Club de Yate Higuerillas

passage entertainment: through the night this little fellow kept flying

Peru-- Part II --Lima, Mira Flores, Huaca Pucllana, and Mistura

LIMA

    city of roughly 11 million people.  There is a perpetual grey fog over the city and surrounding area for months at a time.  I heard one say it was the grey of a donkey’s belly.  That would describe it fairly well.  We arrived July 23, 2013 and left November  25,2013, almost the entire winter season for South America.  During that time it was cold, wet, and grey.  Don said it reminded him a bit of Seattle except no rain. It rains less than half an inch per year in Lima.  The pollution is high giving the buildings a black dust or greyish film layer.  This does not distract from their elegance and grandeur.  The architecture and colors here are awe inspiring. 

We saw the changing of the guards at the Palacio de Gobierno also known as the Presidential Palace, a lengthy process. We went two times and did not stay from start to finish either time.  It is colorful and something you should do as long as you are there.

changing of the guard

they dressed up the dog to come watch this daily event

The Convento de San Francisco is part of the Iglesia de San Francisco and houses a library of over 22,000 leather bound books and parchment scrolls going back to the early 16th century. The knowledge and beliefs recorded on these documents and books blasted my imagination.  These hand covered leather journals, written with quill and ink representing the authors opinions of life and God.  The meaning of it all (the universe) being discussed and written.   I doubt they had it figured out any more than we do. (No pictures were allowed in here.)  The monastery also houses crypts that were not discovered until 1951 and contains the skulls and bones of over 70,000 people.  It was creepy to walk through them.  The monks would bury people one on top of the other using lime in between to keep down the smell.  Some of the crypts are for one family line, some are singular for famous benefactors, others are for the masses.  One in particular, a large circular brick crypt contained over 25,000 bodies. 

Iglesia de San Francisco 

grate in floor looking down at a crypt (pictures were not allowed in the catacombs)

The Museo de Inquisicion- This was the headquarters of the inquisition for the Spanish from 1570 to 1820.  It contains the original tribunal room and the dungeons complete with torture chambers.  This place was the judge and jury for anyone committing crimes against the Catholic Church.  These crimes could be an accusation against the church, a lie, anything against the church.  Horrible deeds were done to people here. 

judge & jury - original desk used

the rack to stretch you apart

looks like waterboarding 

me -  this was a cell they would keep people in for months at a time.

MIRAFLORES  a modern 21^st century suburb of Lima.  The parks, shops, all rival those found in the USA. 

view from the park

park

Larco Mar Mall, built into the side of a cliff

In the heart of Miraflores lies Huaca Pucllana.  It has a hollow core running through its cross section and is believed to have originally been built in the shape of a frog, symbol of the rain god.  It is said that he spoke to them through a tube connected to the cavern.  This site is very touristy due to its location. There are many replicas of the people and their labors placed throughout the excavated areas.  The bricks here are placed vertical lending less space in between giving more protection from earthquakes.  The guide said that the place was rebuilt by the inhabitants every 15 to 20 years placing the new ontop of the old.  To date they have discovered 3 different cultures that occupied the site.

notice the bricks

our friend Fiorella helping make a brick

MISTURA:  The largest food show of any kind we have been to.  This place was a mecca of anything and everything Peruvian.  We went on a week day morning when they opened at 11 a.m.  The line was already quite long.  Thousands of people attend this week long event.  It show cases the pride of Peru, its food.  There are over 3000 varieties of potatoes, over 2000 varieties of avacados.  I have no idea how many types of corn, but many.  Not only do they showcase food but Pisco, a grape brandy, the national drink.  We ate and drank from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.  We had managed to collect a set of glasses from the Pisco we drank but then I forgot them in the cab!  That is still upsetting.  The more pisco the better my spanish!  Don danced with a devil woman wearing snakes and I was filmed on live T.V.  A great day sampling the food and people watching. 

the line before opening

potatoes, reportedly over 3000 types exist in Peru

the breads are super delectable

barbeque the next longest line

this
 is a sweet potato

watermelon roses

does he look nervous?  the head to the 2nd snake is looking at his hand behind her

delicious

soap bubble hug

We also spent Captain Don’s birthday in MiraFlores with Don’s brother Ron who had come from California just in time for the big event, and our new friends Gonzalo and wife Magdala Ravago at a restaurant called El Mercardo.  Gonzalo ordered several dishes giving us a wonderful sample of the menu.  We do not know which was better, each offering it’s own uniqueness. 

 

happy 60 Captain Don

Sun setting we crossed the bridge and entered the village of Barranco to meet up with our friends from La Punta, Fiorella and Frank.    It had been awhile since we enjoyed the night life of a bar, live music and dancing.   We found a local place that claimed to have live jazz.  NO.  It was live, but certainly not jazz in any language.  The area of Barranco is known for its entertainment and the place was quite crowded. Although we did not notice anyone much over 30.   We left and walked around a bit ending in the plaza.  There Fiorella stood center stage and sang her version of Marilyn Monroe’s Happy Birthday to Captain Don.  A heartfelt fun way to end the day. 

Fiorella and Frank, friends from La Punta

Ron and Don, "the on brothers"

Fiorella singing happy birthday 

One of the things Don had wanted before leaving Peru was to eat Cuy, the furry little animal we know as the guinea pig.  While brother Ron was with us we traveled into Lima for some sightseeing and cuy.

I did not taste it but I do not think it tasted like chicken.

 Lima, the city with the grey veil.  Underneath lies the heart beat of a country alive within its legends, boundless in its quest for greatness.

Continued in Peru  - Part III –  The coast of Paracas to Nasca and Huacachina, the desert Oasis