Friday, March 21, 2014

Valdivia to the Gateway of Patagonia – Isle de Chiloé




Patagonia, an area of geography shared by Chile and Argentina.  In Chile, Patagonia is the southern portion of the Andes Mountains reaching southwest towards the Pacific Ocean down to Tierra del Fuego.  This is the coastline of Chile that beckons sailors with unspoiled cruising grounds, challenges utilizing all their knowledge and skill, maximizing the functions of their boats to navigate through treacherous winds and waves, anchorages that can require two or more anchors as well as two to four lines extended to shore secured to trees to combat sudden and unpredictable wind gusts of 70 to 100 mph called “williwaws”.   A quote from the Argentine pilot offers the following definition: “Their action is stronger in the coves and the waters lying under steep mountainsides.  Gusts descend from the valleys in a roar of shaken trees and whistling whirlwind on rocks.  Small twisters of foam and water appear on the sea, rushing at incredible speed on the surface accompanied by curtains of rain or hail that hide the coast to the eye.  The average duration of this phenomenon is 8 to 10 seconds, but they sometimes reach the minute”.   A minuscule 8 to 10 seconds can throw a boat against the rocks causing major damage or worse, sink you into waters of 50 degrees or less.  Will the acclaimed beauty be worth the risk?

We headed down the Rio Valdivia into open water, destination: Isla de Chiloé.  For us the beginning of the majestic and mystical landscape called Patagonia.  It was going to be one of our last passages in open water approximately 210 miles.  This particular coastline is called, “40 barking dogs” by the locals.  There are highly confused seas reacting from winds, the Humboldt current,  and the steep rocky coastline which bounces the waves back at you  (What would 40 barking dogs sound like?)  There are no safe anchorages to duck into along this coast.  Once underway, you are committed.  
  
We left during a light rain and fog, seas up to 8 feet but no wind.  We raised the mainsail for steadying, a baton soon popped loose so we took in a reef.   Around 2 a.m. winds reached 22 knots.  This actually made a smoother ride but did not last.  Throughout the night and into the next day our stomachs felt like they were being churned by a hand mixer, multi-directional waves continuing at 9 to12 feet.  Sleeping and eating on this particular passage was minimal.  Once we entered Canal Chacao we hit even more excitement!  This narrow channel leads from the open ocean over a shoaled entrance into Golfo de Ancud, the body of water between mainland Chile and Isle de Chiloé.  We witnessed one of the fastest tidal streams we’d ever seen as we surfed along at 11 knots plus through this channel. 

took a picture prematurely, we did hit 13!
   

Passed the entrance and shoaling, there were multiple eddies of small fish and birds, sea lions jumped or popped their heads up to peek at the intruders, a glorious ride after the previous 24 hours.  We had now entered Golfo de Ancud, heading for a calm anchorage.   Current ended and we were back to 5.4 knots speed over ground and 30 miles to go.
Arriving a bit tossed, but safe and sound, we anchored at Isla Mechuque, Limbo being the only boat besides the locals.  Calm water and enchanting scenery, it was like looking at a jigsaw puzzle.




The following day was cold, overcast, and rainy.  Not much to do except turn on the generator, both heaters and make a pan of brownies to eat while lying in bed watching movies, a superb day.   The bad weather did bring in several more boats.  At one time I looked out and there were 7 more in the anchorage. 


Black neck swans were gracing the shoreline the following morning, their beautiful necks arching and dipping deeply on the hunt, then again raising their slender long necks into the air without shedding a drop or making a ripple on the surface around them.  I was mesmerized by their movements.  

black neck swans
   

Sun shining, day moving on, we hopped in the dink for a cruise around the island.  Captain Don came a little too close to a duck and her chicks; she retaliated with a full chase and squawk. 

It's not only me that squawks at Captain Don!
  
















Continuing on we beached the dinghy to view a beautiful seaside cemetery.  

a gorgeous seascape view







We walked through the village; saw the local museum and the boat yard.  Quite interesting the way fishing boats are built on the beach out of wood bent by steam to form the hull.  There is not too much to see here but it is a safe and colorful harbor.






anchor made of wood that had a stone on middle

cooking method 
quaint village with brick streets and brightly colored
shingled houses
new construction

steaming wood inside steel pipe on open fire


















We left to head to Marina Quinched which is close to Castro on Isle de Chiloé about 25 miles away.  Sunny day, calm waters, the dolphins had a great time with the bow wake.  Always great to see, makes me think they bring us good luck. 

Marina Quinched is a delightful place in between two towns, Chonchi and Castro.  The bus runs 3 times per week at 8:30 a.m. to Castro and 2:00 p.m. to Chonchi.  You have to walk a quarter mile to the bus stop and if you miss it then it’s a 3 mile walk to the highway.  Fortunately, William Bannister, the owner of the marina goes to town daily or every other day and is only too happy to give a lift.  Castro is the 2nd largest city on Isla Chiloé with good provisioning available.   A short walk up the road from the marina slightly pass the bus stop, a small faded sign advertising huevos, lechuga, and cilantro hangs askew on the fence post.  We were able to buy yard eggs and right from the garden, potatoes, lettuce, cilantro, parsley, and onions.  Across from the marina is a very small calleta, (island) that can only be reached by dinghy or wait until the tide goes down and then you can walk to a charming blue cottage that sells fresh caught escaped salmon, (escaped from one of the multiple salmon farms)  Delicious.  We had a barbeque with other boaters one evening and Captain Don made his famous “Asian glazed salmon”.  There were people from Canada, Holland, Germany, Sweden, France, Denmark, and Chile, quite an international dinner. 


Denmark, Holland, Canada

Sweden, Chile, Holland, France, & Captain Don

We spent Valentine’s Day in the dinghy cruising the coastline and viewing the landscape.  It is seductive with 100 foot cliffs, curvatures, and outcropping of boulders, the rolling green hills with grazing cattle and sheep, stands of pines and hardwoods stunning with their vibrancy of colors.  I’m in awe.  It all seems to be so distant, like a giant billboard, you keep expecting some movement or change.  The view is straight from a magazine, brightly colored, glossy and surreal.  

Marina Quinched



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